2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Problems & Complaints

My vehicle was clean title but then it was considered salvage title, it was involved in a car accident on 9/07/2023 . I never knew about the recall because I am not the first owner. how i found out about the recall was because I have to do brake and lamp inspection and it failed on 10/09/2024 so I took the vehicle to Hayward Mitsubishi on 10/15/2024 to get the recall fix and since then they have not contacted me in any way to give me an update I have called them several times and they told me that they have not received the label so I then decided to try a different dealership that's call Concord Kia Mitsubishi Service and Parts they tried to help me out but also mentioned to me that the recall has no part number so there is no way to order it. I have been waiting for this recall to get resolve for two years.

Need to correct manufacture recalls. Car has 262000 miles. Actual owner in my family. Want to correct issues before accident happens. I have very poor vision when driving because of car head lights being foggy.

Corrosion on cross member

The faulty control arm issue was repaired in 2017. When I went in for a front end alignment on 9/14/2021 they noticed that the control arms were rusting through. I live in Wisconsin and noticed that there is a recall on 2007 lancers for a similar problem where the control arms were not replaced with zinc coated control arms for protection from anti icing agents used on the roads. Does this recall extend to the 2003 lancers.09/14/

UPON INSPECTION OF THE UNDERCARRIAGE IN THE REAR, AREAS OF SEVERE CORROSION HAS DEVELOPED UNDERNEATH THE REAR ON THE ALUMINUM SUBFRAME BAR THAT HOLDS THE REAR DIFFERENTIAL AND OTHER SUSPENSION COMPONENTS IN PLACE SUCH AS THE REAR DIFFERENTIAL & LATERAL CONTROL BARS THAT CAN SURELY COMPROMISE THE CARS ABILITY TO DRIVE IF UNNOTICED. ADDITIONALLY THE FUEL LINES ALONG THE GAS TANK, AS WELL SURROUNDING SURFACES ON THE DRIVER SIDE REAR, HAVE DEVELOPED NOTICEABLE CORROSION AS WELL THAT IS ALSO PROVING TO BE A LARGE AREA OF CONCERN. I AM CERTAINLY CONCERNED FOR MY SAFETY WHEN OPERATING THIS AND THE VEHICLES ROAD WORTHINESS BECAUSE OF THESE AREAS. THIS VEHICLE IS BY NO MEANS HEAVILY MODIFIED AT ALL, THE VEHICLE IS NEVER OPERATED BEYOND ITS LIMITATIONS/AGGRESSIVELY AS IT'S ALWAYS BEEN GREAT FOR ME AS IS, AND IT RESEMBLES EXACTLY THE WAY IT DID WHEN IT LEFT THE FACTORY. SOURCING ORIGINAL AND DOT APPROVED REPLACEMENT PARTS HAS BECOME VERY DIFFICULT AND IT LEAVES ME AT A STANDSTILL. PLEASE IF THERE ISN'T SOME KIND OF ROAD WORTHY DIRECTIVE IN REGARDS TO THIS I BELIEVE THERE SHOULD BE BECAUSE IT CAN CERTAINLY COMPROMISE SAFETY FOR DRIVER IN COMMAND AS WELL AS OTHER DRIVERS ON THE ROADS. TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN AND WHOMEVER READING THIS, I HOPE MY INFORMATION CAME OFF CLEAR AND IS CONSIDERED. I GREATLY APPRECIATE YOU TAKING THE TIME OBSERVE THIS AND MAKING A PROMINENT DECISION. I CAN PROVIDE ADDITIONAL PHOTOS AND VIDEOS UPON REQUEST AS WELL. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME.

SEVERE REAR FRAME RAIL UNIBODY RUST. SPECIFICALLY WHERE THE REAR ALUMINUM SUBFRAME MOUNTS TO THE BODY. MY VEHICLE, ALONG WITH THOUSANDS OTHER, HAVE SHARED SIMILAR RUST AND ROT FROM THE EXACT SAME LOCATIONS ON 2003-2006 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTIONS. ABSOLUTELY NO FRAME PROTECTION FOR THE STEEL BODY. THERE IS ALREADY A RECALL ON THE FRONT SUBFRAME FOR RUST THAT CAN ALLOW THE FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM TO FALL OUT. THE SAME COULD HAPPEN TO THE REAR OF THESE VEHICLES WHERE THE ENTIRE REAR END/DRIVETRAIN AND SUSPENSION COULD FAIL AND FALL OUT, POTENTIALLY CAUSING A SEVERE SAFETY ISSUE. ANY PART OF THE US WHERE HIGH HUMIDITY/RAINFALL OR WHERE ROAD SALTS/SOLUTIONS ARE USED ACCELERATE THE CORROSION PROCESS. BEING A UNIBODY VEHICLE THIS IS A SERIOUS PROBLEM AND DESIGN FLAW. IT HAPPENS OVER TIME AND DOESN'T DISCRIMINATE TO CONDITIONS. HAPPENS ON BOTH DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDES OF THE REAR FRAME LEGS WHERE THE SUBFRAME MOUNTS.

THE AIR CONDITIONING AND HEATER CONTROLS KNOBS ON DASHBOARD. DO NOT TURN. CAN'T. ADJUST TEMPERATURE ELECTRICAL CERCUIT IN THE EMISSIONS SYSTEM HAS LOW VOLTAGE THAT CAUSES THE ENGINE.LIGHT TO CPME ON AND TURN OFF AT RANDOM. THE FRONT HEADLIGHTS ARE VERY WEEK IN LUMINS. WHEN DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AND CITY STREETS , THE CAR ACCELERATES ON ITS OWN WITHOUT. ME PUSHING. ON THE FOOT PEDEL.. THE SUNROOF MOTER CAME UNATTENDED ON IT OWN.

2 YEARS AGO I BROUGHT A NEW CATALYTIC CONVERTER FOR MY CAR FROM DE DEALERSHIP. THAT COST ME 496.76$ FEW MONTHS AGO THE CHECK ENGINE TURN IN AND WHEN I CHECK I HAVE THE CODE P0421. THAT IS THE CODE FOR THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER AGAIN. I COULDN'T BELIEVE IT. I WHEN TO MITSUBISHI 2 DAYS AGO AND THEY TOLD ME THAT THEY COULDN'T BELIEVE IT BECAUSE I'M THE FIRST CLIENT THAT COMES BACK FOR THE SAME PART. ONE OF THE EMPLOYEES CHECK MY CAR AND HE SAID THAT MY CAR IS BURNING OIL. HE TOLD ME THAT I HAVE TO CHANGE THE VALVE LIFTER. DO I REALLY NEED TO DO THAT THEN BUY A NEW CATALYTIC CONVERTER?

OK EVER SINCE THE GASKET WENT BAD AND REPLACED THE GASKET ON THE LANCER THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER HAS BEEN GIVING ME ISSUES NOT JUST GAS BUT ISSUES SOUNDS AND PINGS IN THE ENGINE PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHAT'S THE ISSUE WITH THIS VEHICLE I KNOW THERE IS SOME TYPE OF RECALL ON THIS EXACT STYLE OF VEHICLE AWHILE BACK THANKS. AFTER 45 MPH OR SO JOLTS AND RUMBLES???

THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB BROKE OFF. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY. THE ARM INSIDE CAN BE TURNED WITH A NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS, BUT ONLY TOWARDS THE COLD/AC SIDE. IT STOPS WHEN TURNED TOWARDS THE HEAT SIDE AND WILL NOT GO- FEELS AS THOUGH IT COULD BREAK IF IT WAS FORCED. THIS IS EXTREMELY CONCERNING AS IT IS ABOUT TO BE WINTER IN MINNESOTA AND WITH NO HEAT, THERE IS NO DEFROSTER FOR WINDSHIELD OR REAR WINDOW. I AM VERY WORRIED. UPON FURTHER INVESTIGATION ONLINE WITH OTHER OWNERS OF THE 2003 LANCER, I FOUND OUT THERE ARE MANY OTHER PEOPLE WITH THE SAME ISSUE AND I AM LEAD TO BELIEVE IT IS A PROBLEM WITH MITSUBISHI'S DESIGN THAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN RECALLED. IF I DO NOT HAVE A DEFROSTER I AM IN DANGER AND I AM VERY WORRIED. IT IS ALSO A SAFETY ISSUE IN THIS STATE TO NOT HAVE HEAT. TEMPERATURES DROP BELOW -10F DEGREES EVERY YEAR AND OFTEN AS LOW AS -30F. I AM CALLING ON THE GOOD PEOPLE OF THE NHTSA FOR HELP. WINTER IS COMING AND I NEED MY DEFROSTER. PLEASE HELP ME.

UPPER/LOWER CONTROL ARMS, AND FRONT THE WHOLE FRONT SUPENSION SYSTEM IS MAKING A LOT OF CREAKING AND SOUNDS LIKE IT WILL BREAK WHEN DRIVING.

NOTICED SUSPENSION NOISE WHEN GOING OVER SPEED BUMPS OR POTHOLES. SOUNDS COMING FROM THE DRIVER SIDE LOWER CONTROL ARM.

WHILE REPLACING FRONT SUB FRAME STRUCTURE UNDER RECALL FOR RUST AND CORROSION, RUST DAMAGE TO THE REAR STRUCTURE WAS NOTED BY DEALER. UPON FURTHER INSPECTION, THERE ARE HOLES IN THE REAR STRUCTURE AS WELL.

2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO VEHICLE STALLS AND CAUSES HEAD-ON COLLISION. *SMD *JS

TAKATA RECALL. ON FRONT DRIVER SIDE THE CONTROL ARM/SUBFRAME IS RUSTED/RUSTING OUT REALLY BAD. THERE IS A WHOLE THE SIZE OF A FIST WHERE THE CONTROL ARM ATTACHES TO THE FRAME.

THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BECAME DETACHED RESULTING IN THE INABILITY TO DEIVE THE CAR! I CONTACTED THE DEALERSHIPS AND THEY HAVE BASICALLY BEEN INCORPORATED TO HELPING FIX THE RECALL!!!! I DO NOTBDRIVE THE CAR BECAUSE I LOOSE CONTROL OF IT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V458000 (SUSPENSION). THE PART TO DO THE REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. UPDATED 01/25/2017*CT UPDATED 7/12/18*JB

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V458000 (SUSPENSION); HOWEVER, THE PARTS TO DO THE REPAIR WERE UNAVAILABLE. THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH, THE STEERING COLUMN DETACHED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER STATED THAT THE WARRANTY EXPIRED AND DID NOT OFFER ANY ASSISTANCE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 80,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 15 MPH AND WHILE MAKING A RIGHT TURN, THE DRIVER SIDE TIE ROD SUDDENLY FRACTURED RENDERING THE VEHICLE NOT DRIVABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 193,200.

THE TEMPERATURE KNOB BROKE EASILY BECAUSE IT WAS HARD TO TURN MAKING THE DEFROSTER IMPOSSIBLE TO USE WHICH IS A SAFETY HAZARD. FURTHERMORE THE CRUISE CONTROL WAS ALWAYS FAULTY TO BEGIN WITH BUT NOW IT ISN'T EVEN USABLE. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ALSO LOVES TO LURCH INTO 3RD GEAR WHILE SLOWING DOWN AT THE SAME TIME AND THEN JUMPING BACK INTO THE SPEED I WAS PREVIOUSLY GOING. THIS ISSUE USUALLY HAPPENS AT SPEEDS LOWER THAN 50 MPH.

WHEN I DRIVE MY 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER ES AT 20 MPH AND 40 MPH AND WANT TO INCREASE THE SPEED AND PRESS THE GAS PEDAL, THE RPM OF THE CAR WILL INCREASE AND THE SPEED OF THE CAR WILL DECREASE AND ALL OF A SUDDEN, THE SPEED WILL INCREASE AS IF THE GEARS IN THE AUTO TRANSMISSION JUST ENGAGED. I ALMOST GOT INTO AN ACCIDENT

VEHICLE DECIDED TO SHIFT TO LOW GEAR WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY. IT SHIFT GEARS AUTOMATICALLY FOR NO REASON. *TR

THE VEHICLES KICK PLATE WHERE ALL THE WIRES CONNECT ARE ALL CORRODED ITS A MAJOR PROBLEM WITH ALL EVOS THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL TO GET THIS PROBLEM FIXED. *TR

AIRBAG HORN DOESN'T WORK I CHANGED THE CLOCK SPRING BUT STILL DOESN'T WORK, SUSPENSION IS TERRIBLE I FELL LIKE I AM GOING TO CRASH. THE HEATER ALSO DOESN'T WORK AND THE CONTROL KNOB IS NOT WORKING. *JS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT AN UNKNOWN SPEED, THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL FAILED TO SWITCH FROM AIR CONDITIONER TO HEAT. THE DEALER WAS CONTACTED AND MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

HEATER/AC KNOB BROKE OFF, UNABLE TO SWITCH TO HEAT, KNOB HAS BEEN VERY DIFFICULT TO TURN, INVESTIGATING PROBLEM AND HAVE FOUND THIS TO BE A COMMON EVENT WITH MITSUBISHI VEHICLES DURING THIS RELEASE. WONDERING IF MITSUBISHI HAS ISSUED A RECALL TO CORRECT THE DEFECT. HAVE FOUND ITS GOING TO BE VERY PRICEY TO FIX, LIVING ON A FIXED INCOME AND UNABLE TO AFFORD THE FIX. HAVE HAD THE CAR 14 YEARS BOUGHT IT IN 2002 OFF THE SHOWROOM FLOOR NOT READY TO GIVE IT UP... *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE HEATER CONTROL MALFUNCTIONED, CAUSING THE HEATING SYSTEM TO REMAIN ACTIVATED. AS A RESULT, THE WINDOW BECAME FOGGY. THE CONTACT REFERENCED TSB ACTION NUMBER: 10006466 (VISIBILITY) AND CALLED THE MANUFACTURER. THE MANUFACTURER STATED DUE TO THE VEHICLE BEING OUT OF WARRANTY THEY WOULD NOT COVER THE COST. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 74,500. UPDATED 03/18/14*LJ THE CONSUMER STATED THE HEATER /AC CONTROLS WERE FLAWED BY DESIGN AND CAUSED A BIND UP OF THE CONTROLS NOT ALLOWING THE CORRECT DIRECTION OF AIRFLOW TO CLEAR THE WINDOWS. UPDATED 03/21/14

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE CLUTCH FAILED TO FUNCTION AND THE CONTACT HEARD A POPPING NOISE . THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED AND THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 150,000.

THE CLIMATE CONTROL KNOB WAS HARD TO TURN AND FINAL BROKE SO I CAN'T USE MY CAR IN THE WINTER BECAUSE I CAN'T TURN IT TO HEAT AND I HAVE 2 YOUNG CHILDREN. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL THIS HAS APPENDED TO THOUSANDS AND ITS A SAFETY HAZARD IN MULTIPLY WAYS. *TR

FIRST OCCURRENCE HAPPENED WHILE ATTEMPTING TO LEAVE A CONVENIENCE STORE. CLUTCH WENT TO FLOOR OF VEHICLE, AND DID NOT KNOW WHAT WAS WRONG. SINCE 1ST OCCURRENCE IT HAS HAPPENED REGULARLY APPROXIMATELY EVERY 3-4 WEEKS. FOR THE LAST 8 YEARS. CLUTCH BECOME SPONGY AND REQUIRES ME TO REFILL MASTER CYLINDER WITH BRAKE FLUID. SEVERAL OCCASIONS I HAVE BEEN DRIVING WHEN THE OCCURRED. CAR LOSES ABILITY TO SHIFT DUE TO CLUTCH NOT ENGAGING GEARS. I MUST BE ATTENTIVE TO FLUID LEVELS TO PREVENT IT FROM HAPPENING. HAS BEEN DIAGNOSED AS SLAVE CYLINDER PROBLEM. *TR

THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB WAS VERY HARD TO TURN ON THE AC/HEATER MODULE AND EVENTUALLY BROKE OFF. A FAILURE OF THE TEMPERATURE SELECTION COULD RESULT IN INABILITY TO DEFROST THE WINDSHIELD PROPERLY, RESULTING IN UNSAFE DRIVING ENVIRONMENT. *TR

THE HOT/COLD SWITCH BROKE OFF. SINCE I BOUGHT THIS CAR IT HAS BEEN DIFFICULT TO TURN THE SWITCH FOR TEMPERATURE CONTROL. BOTH KNOBS ARE DAMAGED AND NOW IM NOT ABLE TO CONTROL THE DIRECTION OF THE AIR NEITHER THE TEMPERATURE. THIS HAS TO BE A MANUFACTURE DEFECT SINCE. DURING MY RESEARCH ONLINE I'VE FOUND MANY SIMILAR PROBLEMS LIKE THIS ONE. MITSUBISHI SHOULD MAKE A RECALL AND FIX IT . *TR

THE HEAT/AC KNOB ON MY 2003 MITSUBISHI HAS BEEN EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO TURN. THIS IS ESPECIALLY HAZARDOUS WHEN TRYING TO DEFROST THE WINDSHIELD. IT NOW DOES NOT TURN ANY MORE AND I DO NOT WANT TO FORCE IT BECAUSE I AM AFRAID IT WILL BREAK. BECAUSE OF THIS I HAVE NO HEAT IN MY CAR AND MY WINDOWS FOG UP MAKING IT VERY HARD TO SEE OUT OF THE WINDOWS. I HAVE CONTACTED MY LOCAL MITSUBISHI DEALER AND THEY SAID THAT THIS IS NOT A RECALL AND WOULD COST ABOUT $1400 - $1500 TO FIX. THERE ARE MANY PEOPLE WHO ARE REPORTING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE SAME CAR. I BELIEVE THIS IS A DESIGN FLAW AND SHOULD BE MADE A RECALL AND REPAIRED FOR FREE. *TR

HEAT/AC KNOB HAS ALWAYS BEEN DIFFICULT TO TURN. IT IS NOW STUCK ON A/C. I AM LOCATED IN AN AREA THAT ACQUIRES FREEZING TEMPERATURES, AND EVIDENTLY, WILL NEED TO BE ABLE TO DEFROST THE WINDSHIELD. UPON RESEARCHING THIS ISSUE, I HAVE COME ACROSS THOUSANDS OF MITSUBISHI OWNERS WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. SINCE MOST OF THE U. S. EXPERIENCES FREEZING TEMPERATURES THIS SHOULD, WITHOUT A DOUBT, BE A RECALL BECAUSE IT IS AFFECTING SO MANY DRIVER'S VISIBILITIES. THE OTHER SAFETY ASPECT TO BE CONSIDERED PERTAINS YOUNG CHILDREN, THE ELDERLY, AND THE ILL. CAR WINDOWS OPEN OR NOT, HOW IS IT SAFE TO HAVE THE YOUNG, ELDERLY, OR ILL IN A CAR OVER 100 DEGREES OR UNDER 32 DEGREES? THIS IS SIMPLY UNACCEPTABLE, IRRESPONSIBLE, AND UNSAFE. PLEASE ADVISE A RECALL. *TR

THE HEAT/AC KNOB ON MY 2003 MITSUBISHI HAS BEEN EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO TURN. THIS IS ESPECIALLY HAZARDOUS WHEN TRYING TO DEFROST THE WINDSHIELD, UNTIL IT FINALLY BROKE COMPLETELY OFF. NOW I HAVE NO HEAT IN MY VEHICLE AND IT VISUALLY IMPAIRS MY DRIVING WHEN IT IS COLD AND FROSTS UP. I TRIED TO SEARCH FOR PARTS( COMPLETE SWITCH OR SWITCH KNOB SHAFT) THEY'RE NOT AVAILABLE BUT WHOLE UNIT ABOUT $300 + LABOR. ARE THEY(MITSUBISHI) GOING TO ISSUE A RECALL? THE MORE I RESEARCH, THE MORE I FIND THAT THIS IS A PROBLEM FOR HUNDREDS OF OTHER MITSUBISHI LANCER OWNERS WITH THIS SAME SITUATION ON THEIR HANDS. THE MORE I RESEARCH, THE MORE I FIND THAT THIS IS A PROBLEM FOR OTHERS. *TR

I HAVE HAD MY 2003 LANCER FOR ABOUT 4 YEARS AND THE AC/HEATER KNOB HAS ALWAYS BEEN DIFFICULT TO TURN. RECENTLY THE KNOB "BROKE" AND IT IS NOW STUCK ON AC AND I NOW HAVE NO HEAT THEREFORE IT MEANS I HAVE NO DEFROSTERS. THIS IS A VISIBILITY ISSUE AND THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL. ACCORDING TO ALL OF THE COMPLAINTS THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM THAT NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED AND TAKEN CARE OF. *TR

PURCHASED VEHICLE BRAND NEW JULY 2003. HEAT/AC KNOB HAS ALWAYS BEEN DIFFICULT TO TURN. IT IS NOW STUCK ON A/C. I AM LOCATED IN AN AREA THAT ACQUIRES FREEZING TEMPERATURES, AND EVIDENTLY, WILL NEED TO BE ABLE TO DEFROST THE WINDSHIELD. UPON RESEARCHING THIS ISSUE, I HAVE COME ACROSS THOUSANDS OF MITSUBISHI OWNERS WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. SINCE MOST OF THE U.S. EXPERIENCES FREEZING TEMPERATURES THIS SHOULD, WITHOUT A DOUBT, BE A RECALL BECAUSE IT IS AFFECTING SO MANY DRIVER'S VISIBILITIES. THE OTHER SAFETY ASPECT TO BE CONSIDERED PERTAINS TO: YOUNG CHILDREN, THE ELDERLY, AND THE ILL. CAR WINDOWS OPEN OR NOT, HOW IS IT SAFE TO HAVE THE YOUNG, ELDERLY, OR ILL IN A CAR OVER 100 DEGREES OR UNDER 32 DEGREES? THIS IS SIMPLY UNACCEPTABLE, IRRESPONSIBLE, AND UNSAFE. PLEASE ADVISE A RECALL. *TR

RANDOM P0300 ERROR PLUS VIBRATION AT 2800 TO 3500 RPM. CONTACTED MITSUBISHI AND IT IS A KNOWN ISSUE WITH A TSB FOR ALL EVO VIII VEHICLES DUE TO A FAULTY INPUT SHAFT. HOWEVER, MITSUBISHI DOES NOT COVER THIS UNDER WARRANTY FOR 03 MODELS AS IT WOULD BE OUT OF WARRANTY LONG BEFORE THIS ISSUE SHOWS UP. PROBLEM OCCURS SPORADICALLY AND CAUSES SUDDEN LOSS OF VEHICLE POWER. IN AN ONCOMING PASSING SITUATION, THIS POWER LOSS COULD SERIOUSLY DEGRADE VEHICLE SAFETY. FIX IS EITHER TO REMOVE THE CHECK FOR THE KNOCK SENSOR OR REPLACE THE INPUT SHAFT AT A COST OF ABOUT 4000 DOLLARS TO REPLACE A KNOWN MANUFACTURING DEFECT. MANUFACTURE CHOSE NOT TO ISSUE RECALL EVEN THOUGH THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS SUCH AS THIS ON THIS DATABOARD. MANUFACTURE DOES NOT INFORM CUSTOMER VOLUNTARILY WHEN A PROBLEM IS NOTED ON THE CAR AND SUBMIT RECOMMENDATION FOR FIX. *TR

THE HEATER CONTROL KNOB (HOT/COLD ADJUST) WAS DIFFICULT TO TURN. THIS WAS NOTED TO THE DEALERSHIP AFTER I BOUGHT THE CAR. IN ADDITION, THE MAGAZINE, MOTORTREND, IDENTIFIED THIS ISSUE IN ITS REVIEW OF EVO VS STI. THE DEALER SAID THAT THE PART WAS KNOWN TO SOMETIMES STICK BUT WOULD BE FINE. ABOUT 3 MONTHS AGO, 12/4/11, THE KNOB COMPLETELY BROKE OFF. THE ISSUE WAS COVERED BY A TSB, HOWEVER, THE DEALER DID NOT STATE THAT THE ISSUE WAS KNOWN TO HAVE A FIX. THIS IS A COMMON CAUSE FAILURE FOR ALL 03 LANCERS AND OUTBACKS. THE MANUFACTURE HAS CHOSEN NOT TO ISSUE A RECALL, BUT IS CURRENTLY WAITING UNTIL THE PART COMPLETELY FAILS AND HOPES IT HAPPENS AFTER WARRANTY EXPIRES SO IT WILL BE COVERED BY THE CUSTOMER. THIS ISSUE CAUSES 2 PROBLEMS. ONE, IF IT IS SELECTED TO COLD, YOU CANNOT DEFROST THE WINDOW UNLESS YOU REACH UNDER THE DASHBOARD TO ADJUST TEMPERATURE, OR, US A PAIR OF PLIERS TO ADJUST THE DIAL, AND THUS CREATING A SIGNIFICANT DRIVING HAZARD. TWO, FOR THOSE INDIVIDUALS THAT THE KNOB HAS NOT BROKEN OFF, IT CREATES A HAZARD BY FOCUSING THE DRIVERS ATTENTION MORE ON CLIMATE CONTROL AND NOT ON THE ROAD. THE TSB THAT WAS ISSUED DOES FIX THE PROBLEM BUT SO FAR, MITSUBISHI WILL NOT ISSUE A RECALL ON THEIR DEFECTIVE PART NOR INFORM THEIR CUSTOMERS IF A FIX FOR A PREVIOUSLY IDENTIFIED ISSUE BECOMES AVAILABLE. *TR

HEATER CONTROL KNOB CANNOT BE ADJUSTED, IT IS STUCK ON COLD. CENTER SHAFT IS BROKEN FOR THE KNOB. *TR

THE DEFROST/AIR CONDITIONER/HEAT CONTROL SWITCH HAS NOT WORKED PROPERLY FROM DAY ONE. IT IS A FIGHT FOR HOURS TO GET THE CONTROL TO TURN. WAS TOLD IN 2003 THAT THE PROBLEM WOULD WORK ITSELF OUT WITH USE IN DUE TIME, IT NEVER DID. NOW THE SWITCH IS STUCK BETWEEN THE HEAT AND THE AIR CONDITIONING MARK AND I CANNOT GET IT TO TURN TO EITHER. I CALLED THE DEALER, AND WAS TOLD IT WOULD COST AROUND $1,400.00 TO FIX THE MANUFACTURING DEFECT. A SERVICE BULLETIN WAS ISSUED IN 2005 CONCERNING THIS PROBLEM, BUT, THE DEALER WAS NOT OBLIGATED , ACCORDING TO THEM, TO CHECK EACH CAR IT COVERED FOR THE PROBLEM. I FEEL NHTSA SHOULD HAVE ISSUED A RECALL CONCERNING THIS DEFECT, BECAUSE IF ONE CANNOT USE THEIR DEFROSTER WHILE DRIVING WHEN NEEDED, THEN IT IS A SAFETY PROBLEM IF THEY CANNOT SEE THROUGH THE WINDSHIELD! *TR

HEATING CONTROL DOES NOT TURN. PART NUMBER MN185137HC IS BROKEN. I WAS TOLD BY MISTUBISHI DEALER IN SAN JOSE, CA THAT THE PART IS DEFECTIVE AND COMMONLY BREAKS IN LANCERS. HE SAID IT SHOULD BE RECALLED BUT MITSUBISHI HAS NOT DONE SO. ESTIMATED COST OF REPAIR WAS $300 FOR A NEW CONTROLLER ASSEMBLY PART, $80 TO FIX AIR VENTS SO THAT DUST DOES NOT SPEW, AND ANOTHER $600 IN LABOR COSTS FOR A TOTAL OF $980. *TR

I GOT INTO MY CAR TO START AND IT WOULD TURN OVER BUT NOT START. AFTER REPLACING THE FUEL PUMP, CHECKING ALL THE FUSES AND RELAYS, STILL THE SAME PROBLEM. THE WIRE HARNESS FUSE BLOCK THAT SITS INSIDE THE DRIVERS FOOT WELL HAS BEEN CORRODED BY WATER FROM A LEAK IN THE FIRE WALL. THIS IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM THAT EVEN GOES BACK TO THE PREVIOUS GENERATION , EVO VII, AND WASN'T FIXED FOR THE FOLLOWING GENERATION, EVO IX. *TR

A/C HEATER NOB BROKE OFF AFTER SWITCHING IT FROM COLD TO HEAT. *TR

THE HEATER KNOB ON MY MITSUBISHI LANCER WAS HARD TO TURN FROM HOT TO COLD FROM THE VERY FIRST TIME I GOT THE CAR WITH 65000 MILES. ONE DAY THE KNOB BROKE. I WENT TO THE OFFICIAL DEALER AND THEY TOLD ME THEY HAD TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE HEATING DASHBOARD PIECE AND I PAID OVER 400.00. THE KNOB EVEN AFTER THIS WAS NOT EASY TO TURN AND AFTER A YEAR AND A HALF BROKE AGAIN. NOW I FIND THAT MANY OTHER PEOPLE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. THE DEALER NEVER MENTIONED THIS OR OFFERED ANY ALTERNATE SOLUTION WHEN I MENTIONED THE KNOB WAS STILL HARD. I CAN'T DEFROST MY WINDSHIELD SINCE I CANNOT CHANGE THE TEMPERATURE. MY WINDOWS GET ALL STEAMY AND I CAN'T SEE WHILE DRIVING. IF I TRY TO REACH UNDER THE DASHBOARD WHILE DRIVING TO MOVE THE PLASTIC PART THAT CONNECTS TO THE HEATER IS HAZARDOUS SINCE I HAVE TO BEND AND TRY TO REACH UNDER MY DASHBOARD. THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL!! *KB

TEMPERATURE KNOB WAS ALWAYS DIFFICULT TO TURN, THEN IT BROKE COMPLETELY OFF. NOT A PROBLEM FOR THE SUMMER (IT'S STUCK ON COLD) BUT NEEDS TO BE FIXED FOR THE WINTER SO THAT THE CAR CAN DEFROST THE WINDSHIELD. TECHNICIAN SAID IT WOULD BE BETWEEN $1500-2000 TO REPAIR BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE DASHBOARD AND REPLACE THE ENTIRE KNOB PANEL PLUS FIX THE REAL PROBLEM WHICH IS THE "AIR MIX DOOR LEVER". APPARENTLY THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM FOR MISTUBISHI OWNERS AND THE COMPANY HAS NOT DONE A RECALL TO FIX IT; THEREFORE OWNERS ARE DROPPING $1000S OF DOLLARS TO GET THEIR CAR OPERATIONAL FOR SEASONAL TEMP CHANGES. ISN'T IT A SAFETY HAZARD IF YOUR DEFROSTER DOES NOT WORK??? *TR

THE HEATING/ COOLING KNOB WILL NOT TURN TO HEAT. DEFROST IS MINIMAL, WHICH OBSTRUCTS VIEW WHEN DRIVING IN INCLEMENT WEATHER. HEAT IN CAR IS ABSENT, REQUIRING BLANKET TO BE USED TO KEEP DRIVER WARM IN COLD CHICAGO WINTERS. KNOB MECHANISM NEEDS TO BE RECALLED. THIS IS A MECHANICAL DESIGN ERROR. MATERIALS INVOLVED ARE PLASTIC AND METAL. WITHOUT HEAT FOR DEFROSTING AND MAINTAINING A COMFORTABLE CABIN TEMPERATURE, DRIVING SAFETY IS COMPROMISED. PLEASE ISSUE A RECALL, THANK YOU.

I HAVE TWO ISSUES WHICH SEEM TO HAVE BOTH ALREADY BEEN REPORTED. 1. WHILE DRIVING THE TRANSMISSION WILL IDLE HIGH WHILE DRIVING, BUT THE VEHICLE IS NOT SPEEDING UP. THEN WITHOUT WARNING THE TRANSMISSION CATCHES, AND THE CAR LURCHES FORWARD. THIS IS A RANDOM ISSUE THAT HAPPENS DAILY WITH THE VEHICLE. SERVICING THE TRANSMISSION HAS NOT FIXED THE PROBLEM AND CONTINUES TO BE A PROBLEM TO THIS DAY. 2.THE HEATER/AC CONTROL KNOW BECAME VERY DIFFICULTY TO CHANGE BETWEEN HEATER AND A/C. THE SWITCH HAS FINALLY BROKE OFF, AND NOW I'M UNABLE TO SWITCH BETWEEN HEATER AND A/C. I HAVE DONE RESEARCH AND THIS ALSO SEEMS TO BE A PROBLEM THAT HAS NOT BEEN RESOLVED. I HAVE FOUND MOST OTHER AUTO OWNERS HAVE PAID FOR THE REPLACEMENT, BUT ONLY TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM OCCUR AGAIN. I HAVE DONE RESEARCH ON BOTH OF THESE ISSUES AND IS HAS BEEN REPORTED AS FAR BACK AS 2004, AND AT THIS POINT I DO SEE ANY RECALLS BY MITSUBISHI TO FIX EITHER OF THE PROBLEMS. *TR

AS WITH SO MANY OTHER LANCERS NOTED HERE, MY WIFE'S 2003 LANCER'S TEMP CONTROL KNOB HAS BROKEN. OVER A PERIOD OF A FEW YEARS THE KNOB CONTINUALLY GOT HARDER TO TURN AND RECENTLY JUST BROKE OFF. I ALSO GAVE HER A PAIR OF NEEDLE-NOSE PLIERS TO TURN THE PLASTIC NUB THAT IS LEFT, ALTHOUGH I DON'T KNOW HOW LONG THIS WILL WORK AS EACH TIME SHE DOES IT WEARS DOWN THE PLASTIC SOME. THIS IS OBVIOUSLY A WIDE-SPREAD PROBLEM AND NOT JUST A NUISANCE, AS MY WIFE NEEDS TO BE ABLE TO DEFROST HER WINDOWS AS NEEDED FOR VISIBILITY. SHAME ON MITSUBISHI FOR NOT ACKNOWLEDGING THE ISSUE, LET ALONE FOR NOT FIXING IT. *TR

THE HEATING/COOLING KNOB HAS BEEN HARD TO TURN SINCE I BOUGHT THE VEHICLE. IT WOULD HAVE TO BE FORCED TO SWITCH FROM WARM TO COOL. EVENTUALLY THE KNOB BROKE OFF. MITSUBISHI WAS CONTACTED AND A COMPLAINT WAS FILED BUT SINCE IT WAS NOT UNDER WARRANTY THEY WOULD NOT FIX IT. THE CABLE WAS REPLACED BUT THE PROBLEM WAS NOT SOLVED, IT WAS STILL JUST AS HARD TO TURN. APPROX 1 1/2 YEARS LATER THE KNOB BROKE OFF AGAIN RESULTING IN NOT BEING ABLE TO CONTROL TEMPERATURE AND ENGAGE THE DEFROSTER. *TR

2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER: THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB BROKE OFF ITS SHAFT, AFTER OVER TWO YEARS OF THE CONTROL BEING SO DIFFICULT TO TURN THAT IT WAS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO ACCOMLISH. THE WIRE RUNNING FROM THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL (KNOB) TO THE VENT FLAP THAT CONTROLS HEAT/COLD BENT AS WELL, LEAVING THE VEHICLE WITHOUT A WAY TO CHANGE THE TEMPERATURE (STUCK IN COLD POSITION NOW). THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE, AS I AM UNABLE TO DEFROST/CLEAR MY WINDSHIELD WHEN IT IS COLD OUTSIDE, WHICH RESULTS IN CONTINUOUS POOR DRIVING VISIBILITY. *TR

2003 LANCER OZ RALLY, STEERING COLUMN FELL DOWN IN MY LAP. FACTORY SAID TO BAD, OUT OF WARRANTY AND NO RECALL ISSUED. MY LOCAL DEALER WANTS 700+ DOLLARS TO FIX IT, THIS IS OUTRAGEOUS THE CAR ONLY HAS 64,000 MILES. *TR

NO HEAT/DEFROST IN MITSUBISHI LANCER (2003) USUALLY, ITS KIND OF HARD TO TURN, BUT IF YOU TWIST THE KNOB FAST ENOUGH, YOU'LL HEAR THIS SLIDING SOUND BEHIND THE CENTER CONSOLE SIGNIFYING THE CHANGE FROM COLD TO HEAT. THE KNOB IS NO LONGER DOING THAT, NO MATTER HOW I TURN IT. I WILL TURN IT THE FULL 180 DEGREES, AND IT WON'T "POP" INTO PLACE" AND IT'LL END UP TURNING BACK TO ABOUT 160 DEGREES (THE DIAL LOCATION). *TR

ON JAN. 10, 2011 I WAS DRIVING MY FRIENDS 2003 MITSUBISHI, LANCER. AS WE WERE LEAVING THE DOCTORS OFFICE PARKING LOT I ATTEMPTED TO STOP AT THE PARKING LOT EXIT, A SLIGHT INCLINE BEFORE A BUSY STREET. THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS FIRM BUT THE CAR CONTINUED TO ROLL FORWARD. EVEN THOUGH I WAS PRESSING THE BRAKE AS HARD AS I COULD I WAS UNABLE TO STOP AND THE FRONT END OF THE CAR WAS SMASH BY A SEMI TRUCK. MY FRIEND AND I WERE UNHARMED BUT SHAKEN UP. AFTER CHECKING FOR RECALLS I CAN'T HELP BUT THINK THE BRAKE FAILURE WE EXPERIENCE IS THE SAME AS DESCRIBED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN #09V077000 FOR THE 2008-2009 MODEL OF THE MITSUBISHI LANCER. *TR

MY DAUGHTER'S 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER ES NO LONGER PROVIDES HEAT. AS IN MANY OTHER CASES, THE KNOB HAS BROKEN OFF!! WHY IS THIS NOT THE SUBJECT OF A RECALL? SHE HAS NO HEAT, IT'S WINTER, AND SHE HAS NO MEANS TO DEFROST HER WINDSHIELD. FOR A WHILE SHE WAS ABLE TO TURN THE MECHANISM USING NEEDLE-NOSED PLIERS. NOW, EVEN THAT DOESN'T WORK AND SHE HAS NO HEAT, NO MEANS TO DEFROST HER WINDSHIELD AND WINDOWS RELIABLY, AND THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER OZ RALLY(NA). THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER WAS LEAKING FLUID; THE FOLLOWING DAY THE CLUTCH PETAL WAS NO LONGER OPERABLE. THE DEALER OR MANUFACTURER HAD NOT BEEN NOTIFIED NOR WAS THE VEHICLE REPAIRED OR DIAGNOSED. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE APPROXIMATELY 68,000. UPDATED 04/12/11*LJ

TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB IS VERY DIFFICULT TO TURN. EVENTUALLY, THE CONTROL KNOB BROKE AWAY FROM THE PLASTIC CONNECTOR BENEATH, AND NOW THE TEMPERATURE CANNOT BE CHANGED. A SHORT INTERNET SEARCH HAS SHOWN THIS TO BE SUBJECT OF A TECHNICAL BULLETIN ISSUED IN 2004. *TR

THE HEAT/AC KNOB ON MY 2003 MITSUBISHI HAS BEEN EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO TURN. THIS IS ESPECIALLY HAZARDOUS WHEN TRYING TO DEFROST THE WINDSHIELD. I'VE REPORTED THE ISSUE SEVERAL TIMES TO MITSUBISHI AND THEY HAVE STATED THAT THEY'VE NEVER HEARD OF THIS PROBLEM. HOWEVER, THE MORE I RESEARCH, THE MORE I FIND THAT THIS IS A PROBLEM FOR OTHERS. THIS KNOB HAS BEEN DIFFICULT TO USE FROM DAY ONE. *TR

MITSUBISHI 2003 HEATING KNOB IS NOT WORKING.. *TR

AIR CONDITIONING/HEATING KNOB WAS HARD TO TURN, UNTIL IT FINALLY BROKE COMPLETELY OFF. NOW I HAVE NO HEAT IN MY VEHICLE AND IT VISUALLY IMPAIRS MY DRIVING WHEN IT IS COLD AND FROSTS UP. THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING I CAN DO, EXCEPT TRY TO DRIVE THROUGH IT. *TR

THE HEATER CONTROL KNOB IS BROKEN. I CAN'T ROTATE THE KNOB FROM COLD TO HEAT. IT BEGAN GETTING REALLY DIFFICULT TO TURN ABOUT A YEAR AGO, UNTIL I COULD NO LONGER ROTATE IT ABOUT A MONTH AGO. THE CONSEQUENCES OF THIS ARE YOU CAN'T SWITCH THE AIR FROM COOL TO WARM IN CASE YOU'RE DRIVING SOMEWHERE AT NIGHT AND NEED TO TURN ON THE HEATER FOR A LITTLE WHILE. YOUR WINDOWS FOG UP. NOTHING HAS BEEN DONE TO FIX THE PROBLEM, OTHER THAN MY MECHANIC MESSED WITH THE CABLE INSIDE AND NOW MY KNOB IS PERMANENTLY STUCK ON HEAT, WHENEVER I TURN THE FAN ON. A NEW PART FROM MITSUBISHI IS OVER $500. ARE THEY GOING TO ISSUE A RECALL? I KNOW THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF OTHER MITSUBISHI LANCER OWNERS WITH THIS SAME SITUATION ON THEIR HANDS. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE TEMPERATURE KNOB WAS FRACTURED WHICH MADE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO CONTROL THE DEFROST, HEAT, AND AIR CONDITIONING TEMPERATURES. THE VEHICLE WAS INSPECTED BY A DEALER WHO INFORMED THE CONTACT OF THE REPAIR COST. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 105,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

MY 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER HEATER KNOB BROKE OFF AND I AM UNABLE TO GET THE DEFROSTER TO WORK. THIS HAS BEEN AN ONGOING PROBLEM AS THIS IS A MATERIAL DEFECT IN HUNDREDS IF NOT THOUSANDS OF LANCER AUTOMOBILES. PLEASE HELP FORCE MITSUBISHI TO RECALL AND FIX THIS DANGEROUS PROBLEM. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE HEAT CONTROL KNOB WOULD TURN BUT WOULD NOT ENGAGE THE HEAT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AIR WOULD BLOW THROUGH THE VENTS BUT WOULD NOT GET WARM. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INSPECTED FOR THE FAILURE OR REPAIRED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DEFROSTER WAS ALSO WORKING BUT HEAT WOULD NOT EXPEL FROM THE VENTS. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 65,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 73,000.

TIRE LOCATED ON PASSENGER FRONT SIDE OF VEHICLE IS SHOWING CRACKS BETWEEN THE TREAD AREA AND THE SIDEWALL. FOUR TIRES WERE PURCHASED ON 12/04/2009 AND WERE INSTALLED AT A LOCAL SEARS AUTO CENTER. CRACKS WERE NOTICED OCTOBER 23, 2010, AND APPEAR TO FOLLOW THE CIRCUMFERENCE OF THE TIRE IN THE AREA BETWEEN THE TREAD AND SIDE WALL OF THE TIRE. TO DATE, CRACKS WERE NOTICED ONLY ON THE ONE TIRE. TAKING VEHICLE TO LOCAL SEARS FACILITY TODAY, 10/26/2010, FOR REPLACEMENT. *TR

I HAVE A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. APPROX 4 YEARS AGO THE TEMP CONTROL KNOB FOR THE HEATING/AC BECAME VERY HARD TO TURN FROM COLD TO HOT AND VICE VERSA. SHORTLY THEREAFTER THE WHOLE KNOB AND STEM SNAPPED OFF AND BROKE. I REPLACED THE WHOLE HEATER/AC CONTROL BUT THE PROBLEM STILL PERSISTED. I HAVE LEARNED TO LIVE WITH THIS INCONVENIENCE IN THE SOUTHERN CA CLIMATE. NOW MY SON NEEDS TO HAVE THIS VEHICLE IN PHILADELPHIA, PA WHERE HE NEEDS TO BE ABLE TO USE THE HEATER/DEFROSTER. AS I HAVE BEEN RESEARCHING THIS ISSUE, THIS SEEMS TO A DESIGN PROBLEM THAT MITSUBISHI HAS KNOWN ABOUT SINCE MARCH, 2004 WITH TSB-04-55-003 AND TSB-04-44-003. AS I AM WELL OUT OF WARRANTY, I ASKED MITSUBISHI SERVICE ADVISORS IF THEY WILL HELP WITH THE COST OF $700 - $1100 FOR REPAIRS. I ALSO CONTACTED MITSUBISHI CUSTOMER SERVICE BUT NONE ARE WILLING TO HELP. I FEEL THAT MISUBISHI SHOULD RECALL AND FIX THIS ISSUE FOR SAFETY REASONS (CANNOT USE DEFROSTER) AND FOR THE FACT THAT THESE ARE NOT ISOLATED ISSUES. THANK YOU. *TR

I HAVE A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION. THE TEMPERATURE KNOB BROKE OFF WHILE ADJUSTING FROM COLD TO WARM. MY CAR IS NOW STUCK WITH THE AC ON COLD, THIS ISN'T SO MUCH OF A PROBLEM IN THE SUMMER BUT IT IS GETTING RATHER COLD NOW AND I WOULD REALLY LIKE SOME HEAT. I HAVE ALSO NOTICED THAT THE DEFROST IS NOW USELESS UNLESS IT NEEDS TO BE ON COLD WHICH IS PRETTY INEFFECTIVE IN THE WINTER TIME. THIS PROBLEM STARTED HAPPENING IN 2009 WHERE IT WAS VERY DIFFICULT TO TURN AND FINALLY IN JUNE OF THIS YEAR IT COMPLETELY BROKE. *TR

2003 LANCER - HEATER-A/C CONTROL KNOB BROKE AND CANNOT ADJUST TEMPERATURE. THIS SHOULD BE A SAFETY HAZARD AND SHOULD PROMPT A RECALL BY MITSUBISHI - WHY HAS THIS NOT HAPPENED BASED ON THE NUMBER OF COMPLAINTS LISTED ON THIS SITE? SHOULD THIS BE FORWARDED TO SOME CONSUMER GROUP OR THE NTSB TO INVESTIGATE? *TR

SEATBELTS, IN CARS& PICKUPS OF TODAY, THE CLIP ON THE RIGHT SIDE IS UNDER PERSON SETTING THERE, NO WAY TO FASTEN SEATBELT. IN OLDER CARS & PICKUPS IT STUCK UP WHERE YOU COULD FASTEN IT,IN MY WIFE'S CAR I CANNOT FASTEN IT, JUST CAN IN MY PICKUP. ALSO THE NEW DRIVING LIGHTS, ((ADD ONS)) WHEN PICKUPS COMES UP BEHIND YOU, NO WAY TO SEE, IT BLINDS YOU. REASON DEATH RATE HAS FALLEN,!!!! PEOPLE CAN'T AFFORD GAS TO DRIVE AS MUCH!!!!!!!!!! LESS MILES, LESS DEATHS. HOPE YOU DO SOMETHING SEAT BELTS!!!! I'VE PAID MY LAST TICKET FOR NO SEAT BELT. IF I HAVE TO I'LL FILE A CIVIL RIGHTS CASE NEXT TIME I GET A TICKET, GET SEAT BELT LAW THREW OUT. I THINK BELTS SAVE LIVES, BUT THEY NEED TO BE MADE SAFE TO USE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, THANK YOU, HAVE A NICE DAY. *TR

1. USE OF VEHICLES HEATING/COOLING SYSTEM. 2. THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB BROKEN AND BECAME UNUSABLE. DEFROST/DEFOG NO LONGER WORKS DUE TO NOT BEING ABLE TO CHANGE THE TEMPERATURE. 3. NO FIX AT THIS TIME. *TR

THE CLUTCH CYLINDER RELEASE KEEPS LEAKING UNTIL IT WONT CLUTCH. YOU CANT SHIFT GEARS. ITS HAPPENEDD 6 TIMES IN THE LAST 3 YEARS. THE CAR ISN'T USED FOR ANY TYPE OF RACING BECAUSE IT DOESN'T EVEN HAVE ENOUGH POWER, JUST FOR REGULAR EVERYDAY DRIVING. I'VE TALKED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID THAT THEY WILL NOT COVER IT BECAUSE IT HAS NO WARRANTY ANYMORE BUT THE CARS DEFECTIVE AND THAT IS THEIR PROBLEM. I'VE BEEN READING AND IT SEEMS MY CAR IS NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH THIS SAME PROBLEM. *TR

WHEN DRIVING MY LANCER EITHER ON CITY OR HIGHWAY, IT REFUSES TO SHIFT. THE RPMS GO UP, BUT THE CAR WONT ACCELERATE. IT ACTUALLY SLOWS DOWN AS IF I'M PRESSING ON THE BRAKES (AND IM NOT) THEN OUT OF NOWHERE THE GEAR WILL SHIFT AND THE CAR LURCHES FORWARD UNEXPECTEDLY. IT DOES THIS ALL THE TIME. THE LAST TIME IT DID IT I RAN INTO A CAR. THIS IS A HUGE HAZARD. WHEN I STEP ON THE BRAKES THE CAR ALMOST STOPS, THEN JUMPS FORWARD ABOUT 2 FEET BEFORE ACTUALLY STOPPING. THIS IS A HORRIBLE THING TO DO TO A DRIVER. THE CAR LITERALLY HAS A MIND OF IT'S OWN AND THE DEALERSHIP REFUSES TO DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT. I'VE SEEN COMPLAINTS ABOUT OTHER OWNERS WITH THE SAME ISSUE AND ALL OF THEM SAY THAT THEIR TRANSMISSION DIED COMPLETELY THUS LEAVING THEIR CAR PERMANENTLY MOTIONLESS. I CAN'T EVEN LOOK FORWARD TO GETTING THIS FIXED...I CAN ONLY LOOK FORWARD TO.....NOTHING. I CAN'T SELL THE CAR NOR GET A NEW ONE BECAUSE I'VE SPENT SO MUCH MONEY ON THIS LANCER AND NOTHING FIXES IT. I WAS TOLD THAT IT WAS THE BRAKE PADS, THE TRANSMISSION FLUID, THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER, THE TIRES, THE GAS PEDAL LINE, AND AIR IN THE BRAKES... I HAD ALL OF THESE THINGS REPLACE AND NO CHEAP COSTS AND IT'S STILL NOT FIXED. PLEASE! ORDER MITSUBISHI TO RECALL THIS DEFECTIVE TRANSMISSION! IT SHOULD BE A CRIME TO SELL SUCH A DEFECTIVE AND DEADLY PRODUCT. MITSUBISHI SHOULD BE INVESTIGATED! ALSO, WHEN THE CAR'S RPMS ARE ABOVE 4000, THE POWER STEERING DIES AND I CANNOT TURN LEFT OR RIGHT, THUS I LOSE ALL CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. I'VE TAKEN IT TO THE HENDERSON NV DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID THAT THERE WAS NO TYPE OF RECALL AND EVERYTHING SHOULD BE FINE....I'VE NEARLY CRASHED AND PROBABLY COULD HAVE LOST MY LIFE COUNTLESS TIMES. COUNTLESS. MITSUBISHI SHOULD BE BANNED FROM MAKING VEHICLES IN AMERICA! *TR

THE HEAT/AC KNOB IN MY 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER WILL NOT TURN. IT HAS BEEN DIFFICULT FOR YEARS, BUT FOR FALL/WINTER 2009 I HAD TO HAVE A MECHANIC CRAWL UNDER THE DASH AND FORCE IT WITH PLIERS, THEN I LEFT IT THAT WAY ALL WINTER. NOT VERY SAFE OR CONVENIENT. I'M LOOKING AT A VERY EXPENSIVE REPAIR FROM MITSUBISHI WHICH THEY SHOULD PAY FOR. IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE, YOU CAN'T DEFROST YOUR WINDOWS WITHOUT HEAT, NOR SHOULD YOU HAVE TO USE SUCH LOUSY EQUIPMENT. MITSUBISHI NEEDS TO STEP UP AND ISSUE A RECALL, I'VE SEEN THIS COMPLAINT ALL OVER THE INTERNET. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. WHILE DRIVING AT AN UNKNOWN SPEED, THE CONSUMER WAS INVOLVED IN A CRASH THAT DESTROYED THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT STATED THE FRONTAL DRIVER AIR BAG DID NOT DEPLOY. THE FRONTAL PASSENGER AIR BAG DID. THE DRIVER SUSTAINED INJURIES. A POLICE REPORT WAS AVAILABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A POLICE IMPOUND AND WAS NOT EXAMINED FOR THE CAUSE OF THE AIR BAG FAILURE. UPDATED 10/21/10. LJ THE CONSUMER CRASHED INTO A TELEPHONE POLE. UPDATED 10/26/10*JB

MITSUBISHI 2003 LANCER ES PROBLEM: AC KNOB WON'T SWITCH ALL THE WAY OVER TO HEAT?IT KINKS. IF YOU TURN IT TOO HARD, IT BREAKS AND YOU REQUIRE TO CHANGE THE WHOLE CONSOLE WHICH COSTS AROUND $388.00 PLUS THE LABOR REQUIRED TO INSTALL IT, THEN THE TOTAL WILL BE AROUND $675.00! THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN GOING ON SINCE 2008 BUT IT WORSENED WITH TIME TO THE POINT OF BREAKING RECENTLY. THE TWO OUTSIDE KNOBS ON THE HVAC UNIT (THE KNOBS THAT CONTROL THE TEMPERATURE AND WHERE THE AIR FLOWS OUT FROM) ARE CONNECTED TO THE HEATER CORE VIA METAL WIRES. WHEN YOU TURN THE TEMPERATURE KNOB TO THE RIGHT THE WIRE PUSHES OUT AND WHEN YOU TURN IT BACK TO THE LEFT THE WIRE PULLS IN. THIS WIRE IS CONNECTED TO A PIECE OF PLASTIC ON THE DRIVER SIDE OF THE HEATER CORE. THIS PIECE OF PLASTIC IS CONNECTED TO A GEAR AND IS SUPPOSED TO WORK HARMONIOUSLY WITH THE PIECE OF PLASTIC THE AIRFLOW KNOB (RIGHT OUTSIDE KNOB ON HVAC UNIT) IS CONNECTED TO. THAT IS WHERE THE PROBLEM IS. THESE TWO PIECES OF PLASTIC, BLEND LINK AND LEVER, WHICH ARE SUPPOSED TO SLIDE BACK AND FORTH WITH THE TURNING OF THE KNOBS, DON'T WORK WELL AND THE WIRE ISN'T STRONG ENOUGH TO FORCE THE PIECE INTO THE HEAT POSITION. THE RESULT IS THE WIRE OFTEN KINKS. ON THE DRIVER SIDE, UNDER THE DASH, UP AND TO THE RIGHT THERE ARE TWO PIECES OF WHITE PLASTIC, ONE CLOSER TO THE FIREWALL THEN THE OTHER. THERE IS A METAL WIRE CLIPPED TO EACH. THIS IS THE PART YOU HAVE TO TURN TO CHANGE IT TO HEAT. THE 'BOTTOM' IS THE TEMPERATURE KNOB. YOU CAN EITHER GRAB THE WIRE OR THE PIECE OF PLASTIC IT CONNECTS TO AND TURN IT TOWARD THE FIREWALL MOST PEOPLE SIMPLY TURN THE DEVICE BY HAND NOW BUT THAT?S NOT SAFE TO DO WHILE DRIVING! I BELIEVE THIS IS A DEFECTIVE DESIGN BY MITSUBISHI THAT RESULTS IN A SAFETY HAZARD WHEN THE WIND SHIELD FOGS UP AND YOU CAN?T TURN THE KNOB BECAUSE IT KINKS. MITSUBISHI NEEDS TO DEAL WITH THIS ISSUE BECAUSE IT?S HAPPENING TO HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE. *TR

THE A/C KNOB ON THIS CAR HAS BEEN AN ONGOING PROBLEM AND HAS NOW BROKE OFF. IT HAS ALWAYS BEEN VERY STIFF WHEN GOING FROM A/C TO HEAT AND NOW DUE TO BEING USED WITH SUCH FORCE REPEATEDLY IT HAS BROKE OFF, THE VENT SELECTOR HAS NEVER BEEN AN ISSUE ITS SMOOTH AND TRANSITIONS EASILY AFTER ALL THESE FEATURES ARE SUPPOSED TO MAKE THE VEHICLE MORE COMFORTABLE AND SAFE AND WARM ON COLD NIGHTS... I JUST WENT TO A SITE WHERE AT LEAST 150 PEOPLE COMPLAINED OF THE SAME PROBLEM. THE PART IS OVER 200$ FROM A DEALER AND THE DEALER CHARGES OVER 700-800$ TO REPLACE THE PART(TALK ABOUT A RACKET) AND YET WITH SOOOO MANY COMPLAINTS I FEEL BAD FOR PEOPLE WITH SERIOUS HEALTH PROBLEMS THAT ARE STUCK IN THIS VEHICLE DRIVING UNDER MISERABLE AND YES UNSAFE CONDITIONS ESPECIALLY FOR THOSE WHO CAN'T DEFROST THEIR WINDSHIELD OR PEOPLE WHO HAVE A HARD TIME MAINTAINING BODY TEMPERATURE... A RECALL SHOULD HAVE BEEN ISSUED A LONG TIME AGO, ESPECIALLY IF THE MANUFACTURER HAS SINCE DEVELOPED A "REPAIR KIT" (IN OTHER WORDS HERE'S THE FIX TO SOMETHING WE KNOW DOESN'T WORK BUT WE WANT ALL YOU HARD WORKING PEOPLE TO PAY FOR IT) SO AGAIN LETS SCREW THE LITTLE GUY RIGHT? *TR

2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER - DIFFICULTY TURNING THE TEMPERATURE KNOB. HAD IT FIXED AT THE DEALER JUST ENOUGH SO THAT I COULD TURN THE KNOB, BUT IS STILL VERY DIFFICULT AND HE WARNED THAT IF I USE IT TOO MUCH IT WILL LIKELY BREAK. APPARENTLY MITSUBISHI IS AWARE OF THE PROBLEM BUT REFUSES TO ISSUE A RECALL. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE CONTACT STATED THE KNOBS ON THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL PANEL WERE BREAKING OFF. THE DEALER ADVISED THE MANUFACTURER WAS AWARE OF THE FAILURE YET THE IMPROVED KNOBS WERE ON BACKORDER. THE CONTACT FELT THE FAILURE COULD POTENTIALLY BECOME A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE OF THE HEAT LEVELS IN THE VEHICLE CABIN. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 54,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 79,931.

SINCE THE DAY I PURCHASED THE CAR,THE KNOB FOR THE AC/ HEATER WAS HARD TO TURN. THEN ABOUT 2YRS AGO I CANT TURN IT WITHOUT THE CAR BEING PARKED. IT TOOK ALL MY STRENGTH TO TURN. MOST OF THE TIME I WOULDN'T USE MY HEAT. THEN ONE NIGHT MY WINDSHIELD WAS FOGGED UP. I TRIED DRIVING WITH THE WINDOWS DOWN. BUT I HAD TO STOP TO TURN THE HEAT ON FOR THE DEFROSTER.DRIVING ACROSS A BRIDGE WITH FOGGED UP WINDOWS IS SCARY. WHEN I TURNED THE KNOB IT BROKE OFF. I HAVE TRIED TO GET USED PARTS FOR IT BUT IT IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM FOR THESE CARS. AND THE DEALERS WHAT BETWEEN $700 AND $900 TO FIX THE PROBLEM WITH THEIR CARS. *TR

HEATING/COOLING KNOB HAS BEEN HARD TO TURN SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR. EVENTUALLY THE KNOB BROKE OFF. I WAS TOLD BY A MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP THAT THEY'D HAVE TO REPLACE THE WHOLE UNIT WHICH WOULD RUN ME ABOUT $300 FOR THE PART. I NOW HAVE TO DRIVE IN FULL WINTER CLOTHES WHEN IT'S COLD BECAUSE I CAN'T GET THE THING OFF THE COOL SETTING. *TR

I'D BEEN HAVING DIFFICULTY TURNING THE TEMPERATURE KNOB ON MY 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER FOR A WHILE. THEN, IT BROKE OFF. I FOUND OUT THAT MITSUBISHI IS "AWARE OF THE PROBLEM", EVEN MAKING A REPAIR KIT, BUT THEY HAVEN'T ISSUED A RECALL, & IT COST ME $888 TO HAVE IT REPAIRED!!!!! A KNOB!!!!!! I THINK MITSUBISHI SHOULD TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THEIR SHODDY WORKMANSHIP & ISSUE A RECALL. *TR

2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER OZ RALLY EDITION , SUDDEN ACCELERATION, CAR ENGINE REVS TO 3000-4000 RPM. DOES NOT HAVE ABS SO YOU CAN STOP THE CAR, TAKE YOUR FOOT OFF THE BRAKE AND YOU WILL FIND THE CAR ACCELERATING TO 50 MPH WITHOUT TOUCHING THE GAS PEDAL. CAN BE FIXED BY REPLACING PN# MR578268 FOR $465( IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE) , A PART THAT IS ABOUT $30 TO $70 DOLLARS FOR ANY OTHER CAR. EVENT HAPPENS AT 3-4 MONTH INTERVALS. HAD TO GOOGLE ON INTERNET TO SOLVE PROBLEM. DEALERS WON'T ADMIT PROBLEM BUT HAVE THE OVERPRICED PART IN STOCK!

MULTIPLE DASHBOARD LIGHTS ACTIVATED SIMPLTANEOUSLY (ABS, SRS, BATTERY, EMERGENCY BRAKE) AT THE SAME TIME THE HORN AND WIPERS MALFUNCTIONED IT WAS QUITE DISORIENTING AND HAPPENED IN HEAVY TRAFFIC IN A RAINSTORM! QUITE UNSAFE.

THIS IS A HEALTH ISSUE FOR US BECAUSE MY HUSBAND HAS MS AND IS SENSITIVE TO HEAT ESPECIALLY, BUT ALSO CAN BE SENSITIVE TO COLD. THE HEATER KNOB ON MY VEHICLE BROKE. IT HAD BEEN STICKING FOR A WHILE. I HAD TO TURN THE KNOB PRETTY HARD TO PUSH FROM COLD TO HOT OR HOT TO COLD. IN RESEARCHING A WAY TO FIX IT I WAS APPALLED BY THE NUMBER OF PEOPLE THAT HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER BUT NO RECALL HAS BEEN INITIATED BY MITSUBISHI. AT THIS POINT WE JUST NEED TO REPLACE ONE SMALL SHAFT FOR THE KNOB TO SLIP ONTO, BUT THE DEALERSHIP CLAIMS WE HAVE TO BUY THE WHOLE UNIT - $215 PLUS SHIPPING AND LABOR. WITH MY HUSBAND HAVING MS, WE ARE ALWAYS PAYING MEDICAL BILLS. WE WENT TO A SALVAGE YARD AND THE HEATER ASSEMBLY WAS MISSING FROM THE ONLY LANCER ON THE LOT AND ACCORDING TO ONE PERSON EVERY LANCER HE SAW COME THROUGH HAD THE LEFT KNOB BROKEN OFF THE HEATER TEMP CONTROLLER. NOW IT IS COLD IN THE MORNINGS AND WARM IN THE AFTERNOONS AND WE CANNOT ADJUST THE TEMPERATURE AT ALL. WE HAD BEEN USING PLIERS BUT NOW CANNOT MOVE IT AT ALL. PLEASE LOOK INTO THIS BECAUSE IT IS A HEALTH ISSUE FOR THOSE WITH MS AND OTHER NEUROLOGICAL AND AUTOIMMUNE DISORDERS. *TR

THE TEMPERATURE KNOB WILL NOT TURN FROM COOL TO HEAT RESULTING IN THE FAILURE TO HEAT THE WINDSHIELD. IN TURN, ANY FROST, ICE, OR FOG WILL NOT BE REMOVED AND HINDERS VISION. *TR

SINCE WE PURCHASED THE CAR WE HAVE BEEN COMPLAINING; BUT TOLD THAT THE KNOBS ARE A LITTLE HARD TO TURN AND THERE IS NO PROBLEM. THE CONTROLS FINALLY BECAME INOPERABLE; WHICH PUTS OUR SAFETY AT RISK. HVAC CONTROLS HAVE BEEN DESIGNED WITH A MECHANICAL FLAW WHICH MAKES THE DEFROSTING, HEATING, AND AC COMPONENTS DIFFICULT TO OPERATE AND EVENTUALLY BECOME INOPERABLE. TSB 055-003 HAS BEEN ISSUED PUTTING THE REPAIR ON THE CONSUMER FOR A DESIGN FLAW WHICH PUT MOTORIST AT RISK ESPECIALLY IN INCLEMENT WEATHER. *TR

CONTINUING CRUISE CONTROL FAILURE. 1. EVER SINCE I PURCHASED THIS CAR IN 2003 IT HAS HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL. WHILE DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL SET AND THEN SUDDENLY INCREASING YOUR SPEED WHILE SAY PASSING OR SPEEDING UP, ONCE YOU LET OFF THE GAS TO RETURN TO THE CRUISE CONTROL SPEED THE ENGINE WILL SUDDENLY REV AND WILL NOT STOP INCREASING SPEED UNTIL YOU RELEASE THE CRUISE CONTROL BY HITTING THE BRAKE OR THE BUTTON ON THE STEERING WHEEL TO DISENGAGE THE CONTROL. 2. IT HAS HAPPENED EVERY TIME I SET THE CRUISE CONTROL FOR EXTENDED PERIODS OF TIME THEN INCREASE SPEED FOR SHORT DISTANCES AND TRY TO RETURN TO THE CRUISE CONTROL SPEED. SINCE I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE 3. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER MULTIPLE TIMES BUT THEY SAID THEY WERE UNABLE TO REPLICATE THE PROBLEM. I EXPLAINED THAT THE WOULD NEED TO DRIVE SAY 20 MILES ON THE HIGHWAY TO MAKE IT HAPPEN, THEY SAID THEY DIDN'T HAVE ENOUGH TIME AND TOLD ME THAT THE CAR DIDN'T HAVE A PROBLEM. I REPORTED THE ISSUE TO MITSUBISHI AT THE TIME OF PURCHASE ON THEIR WEBSITE AND CUSTOMER SERVICE NUMBER. *JB

2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB DOESN'T WORK PROPERLY. I CAN'T TURN THE HEAT ON. WHEN I TURN THE KNOB FROM COLD TO HOT THERE IS A LOT OF TENSION AND I'VE ALREADY BROKEN ONE KNOB TRYING TO FORCE IT TO TURN THE HEATER ON WHEN IT'S COLD OUT. THE ONLY WAY TO TURN THE HEAT ON IS TO LOOK FOR A LEVER TO THE RIGHT OF THE GAS PEDAL AND MANUALLY TURN THE HEAT ON. THIS IS NOT SAFE WHILE DRIVING. ALSO, THE WINDSHIELD WON'T DEFROST IF THE HEATER ISN'T ON. THIS HAS BEEN ONGOING FOR ABOUT TWO YEARS AFTER I BOUGHT THE CAR AND HAS PROGRESSIVELY GOTTEN WORSE. I HAVE BEEN THE ONLY OWNER OF THE VEHICLE. *TR

CLIMATE CONTROL KNOB BROKE OFF ON MITSUBISHI ,FOUND TO HAPPEN ON LOTS OF THESE CARS, CANT DEFROST WINDOW. CANT SEE. SAFETY HAZARD? *TR

I HAVE A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER ES. THE TEMPERATURE KNOB, WHICH WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO TURN FROM THE VERY BEGINNING HAS NOW BROKEN OFF. I RESEARCHED ONLINE AND HAVE COME ACROSS HUNDREDS OF THE SAME COMPLAINT AND THIS IS WITH MINIMAL RESEARCH ON MY PART. INITIALLY SWITCHING THE TEMPERATURE KNOB FROM HOT TO COLD WAS DIFFICULT AT BEST. I OFTEN HAD TO REQUEST A GROWN MAN TO HELP ME JUST SO I COULD DEFROST MY WINDSHIELD. I DID BRING THE ISSUE UP TO THE DEALERSHIP NEAR MY HOME, WHICH HAS SINCE CLOSED, AND THEY INFORMED ME THE KNOB WOULD NOT BREAK. WELL.....THE KNOB BROKE AND NOW I HAVE TO USE A NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO CHANGE THE TEMPERATURE. THE SAFETY ISSUE IS WHEN YOU ARE DRIVING AND IT BEGINS TO RAIN OR SNOW, ETC. AND YOU NEED TO ADJUST THE TEMPERATURE YOU CANNOT. I HAVE HAD TO PULL OFF THE HIGHWAY IN HASTE BECAUSE MY WINDSHIELD IS FOGGING UP AND I NEED TWO HANDS IN ORDER TO SWITCH MY TEMPERATURE KNOB. MITSUBISHI HAS GOT TO BE AWARE OF THIS SINCE APPARENTLY A TECHNICAL REPORT HAD BEEN SENT TO THEIR MECHANICS ADVISING HOW TO FIX THIS PROGRAM. IN ADDITION I HAVE READ MITSUBISHI ACTUALLY HAS A REPAIR KIT FOR THIS PROBLEM AND APPARENTLY FOR THE CAR OWNER THE COST FOR THE TOTAL REPAIR IS $800-$900. IT IS AN ABSOLUTE DISGRACE THAT MITSUBISHI WAS ALLOWED TO SELL CARS IN 2002, 2003, AND 2004 GET AWAY WITH NOT REPAIRING THIS PROBLEM.

TEMPERATURE KNOB OF MITSUBISHI LANCER DOESN'T GO TOWARDS HEATING. *TR

IN THE 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER ES THE CLIMATE CONTROL SWITCH THAT CONTROLS THE HEAT/COLD IS FAULTY. THE SWITCH HAS ALWAYS BEEN HARD TO TURN AND EVENTUALLY BROKE OFF. MAKING THE CAR OWNER UNABLE TO SWITCH FROM HOT TO COLD. THIS POSES A PROBLEM IN THE WINTER MONTHS ESPECIALLY SINCE THE CAR OWNERS WILL BE UNABLE TO DEFROST THEIR WINDSHIELD. MAKING IT A HAZARD. THE DEALERSHIP SAYS THERE ISN'T A RECALL FOR THIS PROBLEM. THIS IS THE EXACT QUOTE I RECEIVED FROM THE DEALERSHIP ON THE REPAIR. "TO REPAIR THIS PROPERLY WE NEED TO REMOVE THE DASH AND REPAIR THE HEATER BOX. IF THAT IS NOT DONE THAN YOU WILL DAMAGE THE NEW HEATER KNOB. THE PARTS FOR THE REPAIR ARE $520.00 AND THE LABOR TO DO THE REPAIR IS $756.00" I'VE SEEN NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM OVER THE INTERNET. *TR

UNABLE TO TURN TEMP CONTROL SWITCH FROM HEAT TO A/C. UNABLE TO DEFROST WINDOWS. MITSUBISHI QUOTED $1200 TO FIX. HAVE HAD TO PULL CAR OFF THE ROAD TO WIPE DOWN WINDOWS BECAUSE THE WINDOWS HAVE FOGGED UP WHILE DRIVING AND THERE IS NO WAY TO TURN DIAL WITHOUT CRAWLING UNDER THE DASH AND MANUALLY PULLING IT FROM A/C TO HEAT. *TR

2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER PURCHASED IN FALL OF 2003, AC/HEATER CONTROL KNOB WAS DIFFICULT TO TURN & EVENTUALLY BROKE OFF. SINCE THE UNIT IS NOW STUCK ON A/C THE DEFOGGING SYSTEM DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY MAKING IT HAZARDOUS TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE IN WINTER MONTHS. I FIND THE INOPERABLE OF THE AC/HEATER CONTROL KNOB TO BE A LIFE THREATENING RISK. WILL A LIFE HAVE TO BE LOST BEFORE A RECALL IS CONSIDERED? HOW MANY MORE COMPLAINTS WILL GO UNHEARD? THE CONSUMER SHOULD NOT BE EXPECTED TO FORK UP $900-1200 FOR A TEMPORARY FIX TO ONLY HAVE THE ISSUE REOCCUR. *TR

HVAC DASH CONTROL UNIT-MITSUBISHIS LANCER 2003 THE KNOB THAT CONTROLS THE HOT AND COLD BROKE,IT IS STUCK IN THE COLD POSITION. NOW UNABLE TO REGULATE THE HEATING FUNCTIONS. IT ALSO HINDERS THE DE-FOGGING FEATURE FROM WORKING. I LIVE IN NYC AND THE WEATHER HAS NOW CHANGED. WITH THE CLIMATE CHANGE I HAVE NO HEAT NOR CAN I USE THE DE-FOGGING IF I AM DRIVING IN THE RAIN. PART IS NOT REPAIRABLE BY DEALER BECAUSE IT IS NOT A DEFECT IN THE CAR. I HAVE RESEARCHED AND FOUND THAT EVERY OWNER OF THIS TYPE OF VEHICLE SINCE 99/00 HAS HAD THIS HAPPEN. EACH OWNER HAS STATED THAT MITSUBISHI DOES NOT RECOGNIZE IT AS A RECALL. IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE FOR PEOPLE LIKE MYSELF WHO LIVE WHERE THE CLIMATE CHANGES, AS WELL IF SOMEONE LIVES IN A WARM CLIMATE/COLD CLIMATE YEAR ROUND. I THINK MITSUBISHI NEEDS TO ADMIT TO THIS DEFECT AND FIX IT FOR ALL OWNERS OF THIS MODEL. BEING THAT THIS HAPPENS SO FREQUENT THERE IS NO WAY TO ACQUIRE THE PART SECOND HAND. ONLY AT THE DEALER. *TR

TEMPERATURE KNOB WONT TURN. CAN NOT MOVE THE KNOB FROM AC TO HEAT. CAN NOT REMOVE FOG OF THE WINDSHIELD. *TR

WE HAVE A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER AND THE HOT/COLD SWITCH BROKE OFF. IN TRYING TO RESEARCH THIS, I FOUND 100'S OF ONLINE COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM, PLEASE SEE THE ATTACHED WEBSITE HTTP://WWW.ABOUTAUTOMOBILE.COM/COMPLAINT/2003/MITSUBISHI/LANCER. IT IS ALSO NOT POSSIBLE TO GET THE WINDOWS TO DEFROST IN THE VEHICLE DUE TO THIS PROBLEM. THAT IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE. THE COMPANY SHOULD BE DOING A RECALL FIX ON THESE... *TR

2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER OZ RALLEY . THE HEATER HOT AND COLD SELECTOR WILL NOT SWITCH FROM HOT TO COLD. YOU HAVE TO REACH UNDER THE DRIVERS SIDE DASH AND MOVE IT FROM HOT TO COLD. IF NOT THE SELECTOR SWITCH WILL BREAK. I HAVE ALREADY REPLACED IT ONCE. NO SOLUTION IN SIGHT. BY THE WAY I AM A MECHANIC BY TRADE WITH 20 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE. ALSO THE PLUG COMING OFF THE DASH HARNESS HAS SEEMED TO HAVE GOTTEN HOT AND AS A RESULT THE PLASTIC IS DETERIORATING ALLOWING A SHORT BETWEEN THE WIRES. WHICH IN TURN CAUSES THE FUSE FOR THE HEATER CONTROL LIGHTS AS WELL AS THE RIGHT FRONT AND REAR MARKER LIGHTS TO BURN OUT. *TR

WE HAVE A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER AND THE HOT/COLD SWITCH BROKE OFF. IN TRYING TO RESEARCH THIS, I LITERALLY FOUND 100'S OF ONLINE COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. WE LIVE IN MN, AND IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO GET THE WINDOWS TO DEFROST IN THE VEHICLE DUE TO THIS PROBLEM. THAT IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE. THE COMPANY SHOULD BE DOING A RECALL FIX ON THESE...SINCE GETTING IT FIXED DOESN'T FIX THE PROBLEM AT ALL, THE SWITCH BEHAVES THE SAME WAY AFTER ABOUT 90 DAYS OF USE. *TR

2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER RECALL ON THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER. CONSUMER STATES THAT THE RECALL WAS NEVER DONE BUT MITSUBISHI STATES THAT IT WAS FIXED IN JUNE 2008.. CONSUMER WAS THE OWNER AT THAT TIME. *NJ A MECHANIC ADVISED THE CONSUMER THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. *JB

THE AIR/HEATING UNIT BUTTON ON THE DASH BROKE OFF COMPLETELY. IT WAS EXTREMELY HARD TO TURN THE KNOB TO HEAT WHILE ATTEMPTING TO TURN IT TO THE RIGHT. WHEN I CONTACTED THE DEALER THEY KNEW EXACTLY WHAT I WAS TALKING ABOUT. THEY SAID THAT THEY'VE HAD MANY CAR OWNERS BUYING THE UNIT BECAUSE THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE 2003 LANCER. THE UNIT ITSELF IS VERY EXPENSIVE TO BUY AT A COST OF $379.00. THIS DOES NOT INCLUDE THE LABOR. THE LABOR WAS QUOTED AT $549.00, BECAUSE THEY WOULD HAVE TO TAKE THE DASHBOARD/ TRIM OUT AND OFF TO REPLACE THE UNIT. I JUST REPLACED THE UNIT AND THE SAME PROBLEM HAS STARTED AGAIN. THIS IS JUST ONE OF MANY PROBLEMS. I HAVE EXPERIENCED. THE CAR WILL JERK AND HESTITATE AND LOSE POWER WHILE DRIVING. THE GEARS WILL SHIFT AND I WILL LOSE MOMENTUM WHILE DRIVING. YOU CAN HEAR A REVVING SOUND LIKE THE TRANSMISSION IS ABOUT TO GO OUT. THESE ARE JUST A FEW PROBLEMS - I HAVEN'T MENTION THAT I'VE HAD TO REPLACE THE AIR CONDITION UNIT BECAUSE OF THE CONDENSATION LEAKING INTO THE FRONT PASSENGER FLOOR BOARD CAUSING IT TO FILL WITH WATER. THIS PROBLEM OCCURRED TWICE. THE DEALER REPLACE THE UNIT WITH A NEW ONE. *TR

MITSUBISHI LANCER 2003 BASE MODEL AIR CONDITIONER (HEAT COOL) KNOB BROKE OFF DUE TO MALFUNCTION OF TURNING/WIRES. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO NUMEROUS PEOPLE AND YET NO RECALL. *TR

2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER OZ RALLY - HEATER CONTROL KNOB NOT PROPERLY WORKING. PURCHASED VEHICLE USED IN MARCH 2007, NOTICED CONTROL KNOB HARD TO TURN. TOOK INTO DEALERSHIP TO FIX A RECALL ON EXHAUST MANIFOLD & GASKETS, HAD THEM ALSO CHECK THE A/C TEMP KNOB BECAUSE IT WAS HARD TO TURN FROM HEAT TO COLD. WARRANTY DID NOT COVER, WAS STILL OPERABLE, SO DID NOT GET REPLACED. EVENTUALLY THE KNOB COMPLETELY BROKE OFF IN DECEMBER 2007, PAID TO REPLACE HEATER CONTROL ASSY #MN185137HB (LUCKILY WARRANTY COVERED PARTIAL - TOTAL COST 347.27, WARRANTY COVERED 247.27, PAID 100.00) AFTER KNOB WAS REPLACED THE HEATER WAS WORKING FINE. AGAIN,EVENTUALLY THE TEMP CONTROL KNOB WOULD NOT STAY ON HEAT, WOULD RETURN MIDWAY BETWEEN HOT & COLD. DEALERSHIP SUGGESTED REPLACING: HEATER BLEND DOOR (7801A360 - $80.22) & LINK & LEVER (7801A110 - $30.03), WITH AN ADDITIONAL 8 HOURS OF LABOR WOULD BE $850 + TAX. AFTER REVIEWING OTHER COMPLAINTS, I HAVE NOTICED MANY OTHERS HAVE HAD SAME PROBLEM. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE, SPECIFICALLY DUE TO NOT BEING ABLE TO USE DEFROSTER. THIS ISSUE SHOULD BE REVIEWED. *TR

ALL THREE BRAKE LIGHTS STOPPED WORKING WITH NO WARNING. 1. NORMAL DRIVING TO AND FROM WORK, UNSURE OF ANYTHING LEADING UP TO FAILURE. WAS ALERTED BY ANOTHER DRIVER THAT WAS BEHIND ME WHILE DRIVING AND THEN PULLED UP NEXT TO ME AT A LIGHT. WAS LUCKY THERE WAS NO CRASH. 2. LIGHTS ARE COMPLETELY OUT, HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO GET THEM BACK ON 3. HAVE CHECKED THE FUSE AS LABELED IN THE MANUFACTURERS HANDBOOK, CHECKED THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH, CHECKED THE LIGHT BULBS, ALL ARE IN OK FASHION AND WORK WHEN TESTED SEPARATELY. *TR

2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION. LOUD GRINDING NOISES COMING FROM THE TRANSMISSION WITHIN A FEW THOUSAND MILES. CARS UNDER 8 THOUSAND MILES HAVING TO REPLACE CLUTCHES AND TRANSMISSIONS. GEARS POPPING INTO NEUTRAL. DEALERSHIP ACCEPTED WARRANTY AND IS CURRENTLY WORKING ON THE CAR. CAR WAS RETURNED A 2ND TIME TO BE LOOKED AT AGAIN. *TR

I OWN A 2003 DIAMANTE WITH ABOUT 60,000 MILES ON IT. MY WINDOWS CONTINUALLY FOG UP WHILE DRIVING OR PARKED AND THE DEFROSTER/VENTS DOES NOT ELIMINATE THE FOG AT ALL, MAKING DRIVING VERY DIFFICULT AND DANGEROUS ESPECIALLY IN RAINY WEATHER AND DURING THE NIGHTTIME. THE SMELL OF ANTIFREEZE IS EXTREMELY STRONG INSIDE THE VEHICLE. I HAD A PROBLEM WITH MY TRANSMISSION SHIFTING AND THE LIGHT AROUND THE "N" ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WAS FLASHING. THE MECHANIC SAID MY HEATER CORE WAS LEAKING COOLANT ONTO THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE CAUSING IT TO MALFUNCTION. I WAS TOLD THAT EVEN THOUGH I PAID FOR AND HAVE AN EXTENDED WARRANTY ON THIS VEHICLE IT WOULD NOT BE COVERED BECAUSE THE HEATER CORE LEAKING IS WHAT CAUSED THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE TO FAIL. THE HEATER CORE WAS REPLACED ALONG WITH THE CONTROL MODULE AND THE RELAY WITH A COST OF OVER 2,500 DOLLARS. IT SEEMS LIKE A PROBLEM LIKE THIS THAT IS EXTREMELY COMMON IS THESE VEHICLES, CREATES SAFETY AND HEALTH HAZARDS, AND VERY EXPENSIVE TO FIX SHOULD BE RECALLED AND COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. *TR

I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE HEAT/COLD KNOB AND THE VENT KNOB. I COMPLAINED TO THE DEALER AND THEY QUOTED ME ALMOST $1900 TO FIX. YEAH RIGHT!!! THIS IS A SOLUTION.... NOT A COMPLETE FIX BUT I GET HEAT IN THE WINTER AND A/C IN THE SUMMER. I HAVE TO REACHED UP UNDER THE DASH AND MOVE THE CONTROLS AT THE HEATER BOX. IF YOU STILL HAVE A KNOB TURN IT WHILE YOU ARE MOVING THE PLASTIC ARM FROM UNDERNEATH. THE VENT CONTROL IS A LITTLE HARDER TO GET TO BUT IT'S UP THERE, JUST A LITTLE HIGHER AND IT'S SMALLER SO IT'S HARDER TO GET LEVERAGE. HOPE THIS HELPS ALL OF YOU. LOOK UNDER FROM THE DRIVER SIDE. YOU'LL SEE THE CABLES AND THEY'RE CONNECTED TO A PLASTIC ROTARY ARM THING. IT WORKS... YES IT'S A PAIN... BEATS DISHING OUT MAJOR BUCKS FOR SOMETHING THAT'S NOT OUR FAULT. *TR

KNOCKING NOISE COMING FROM THE CLUTCH AREA. EVERY TIME I RELEASE THE CLUTCH ON MY CAR I HEAR THIS KNOCKING NOISE, WHEN I DEPRESS THE CLUTCH THE NOISE GOES AWAY. *TR

THE CAR WAS RUNNING FINE AND HAD NO PROBLEMS THEN WHEN I STARTED IT UP ONE DAY THE DASH LIGHTS AND TAIL LIGHTS STARTED PULSING. I THOUGHT IT MIGHT BE THE ALTERNATOR SO I HAD IT CHECKED OUT. THE SHOP SAID THE ALTERNATOR IS IN PERFECT CONDITION AND COULDN'T FIGURE OUT THE PROBLEM. THE PULSATING LIGHTS IS STILL GOING ON, AND I HAVEN'T BEEN ABLE TO FIND OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM IS. *TR

AT NIGHT DRIVING IN HEAVY RAIN, UNABLE TO TURN OFF AIR CONDITIONER AND SWITCH ON WINDSHIELD DEFROST BECAUSE HEATER, TEMPERATURE DIAL BROKE OFF. *TR

THE 5TH GEAR SYNCRO HAS FAILED ON THE CAR AT 60,000 MILES. THIS IS A KNOWN DEFECT TO MITSUBISHI AND THEY HAVE DEVELOPED NEW, STRONGER PARTS AS PART OF A TSB. HOWEVER, MITSUBISHI IS REFUSING TO REPAIR THE DEFECT CITING "ABUSE". *TR

I HAD JUST LEFT MY HOME. I HAD NOT BEEN DRIVING FOR MORE THAN 2 MINUTES WHEN MY FRONT SPEAKERS SHUT OFF. I THEN START TO NOTICE A BURNING SMELL. I SEE THE INTERIOR START TO FILL UP WITH SMOKE. I THOUGHT IT WAS AN ENGINE FIRE AT FIRST UNTIL I NOTICED A FIRE IN MY PASSENGER DOOR SPEAKER. I PULLED OVER BUT WAS NOT ABLE TO EXTINGUISH THE FLAMES. I MADE A CALL TO 911 TO SEND THE FIRE DEPARTMENT. THANKFULLY THE FIRE HOUSE WAS VERY CLOSE AND WAS ABLE TO PUT THE FIRE OUT BEFORE IT DAMAGED MORE THAN JUST THE DOOR. I HAVE THE DOOR AND SUBSEQUENT DAMAGE SCHEDULED TO BE REPAIRED AUG 18TH 2008. I HAVE NOT TAKEN APART, REPLACED, OR UPGRADED ANY DASH, RADIO OR ELECTRICAL COMPONENT OF THE CAR. I DON'T KNOW WHAT WOULD HAVE CAUSED THIS. ADDITIONALLY I AM ALSO MISSING THE HEAT AND A/C KNOB AS IT BROKE OFF LAST WINTER. *TR

ADD MY BUMBLE BEE TO THE GROWING LIST OF LANCERS WITH BROKEN OFF HEATER/A.C. KNOBS DUE TO THE BADLY DESIGNED AND FAULTY COMPONENT COUPLED WITH IN AN INEPT SERVICE DEPARTMENT. SHOULD HAVE MADE THIS COMPLAINT WHEN IT FIRST HAPPENED INSTEAD OF JUST WAITING FOR THE RECALL THAT NEVER HAPPENED. *TR

I HAD JUST ARRIVED FROM WORK AND PULLED-IN MY DRIVEWAY, I WAS IDLING MY CAR BEFORE SHUTTING OFF THE ENGINE. I THEN SWITCHED OFF MY HEADLIGHTS, BUT THE HEADLIGHTS STAYED ON. I THEN PROCEEDED TO TURN THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH ON, THEN OFF; AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS THE HEADLIGHTS FINALLY SWITCHED OFF, BUT THEN, THE HEADLIGHTS, PARKLIGHTS, MARKERS AND EVEN THE LICENSE PLATE LIGHTS WOULD FLICKER UNTIL THE IGNITION WAS SWITCHED OFF AND PULLED OUT THE KEY, BUT JUST BEFORE THIS INCIDENT I USED MY WIPERS TO CLEAR MY WINDSHIELD OF RAIN/MIST WITH A ONE WIPE/MANUAL SWEEP AND THE WIPERS JUST SEEMED THAT IT DIDN'T WANT TO STOP WIPING UNTIL THE IGNITION WAS SWITCHED OFF AND THE KEY PULLED OUT. THIS IS THE FIRST INCIDENT AND IT WAS RAINING OR HAD JUST RAINED. THE DEALERSHIP THEN REPLACED BOTH LIGHT AND WIPER SWITCHES AFTER DETERMINING THAT THERE WAS A SHORT. THIS SEEMED TO ADDRESS AND CORRECT THE PROBLEMS. THEN ON APRIL 28, 2008 I HAD JUST ARRIVED AT WORK AND WAS IDLING MY CAR BEFORE SWITCHING THE IGNITION OFF, AS I SWITCHED OFF THE LIGHTS THE HORN STARTED GOING OFF CONTINUOUSLY. IF THE LIGHTS WERE LEFT IN THE ON OR PARK POSITION, THE HORN WOULD STOP, BUT WHEN THE LIGHT SWITCH WAS TURNED OFF, IT DIDN'T STOP GOING OFF EVEN WHEN THE IGNITION WAS OFF AND THE KEY PULLED OUT. IT ONLY STOPPED AFTER THE FUSE WAS PULLED OUT. AGAIN, THE WEATHER WAS RAINING OR HAD JUST RAINED. I THEN DROPPED OFF MY CAR AT THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY DETERMINED THAT WATER INTRUSION THROUGH THE DRIVER'S FRONT KICK PANEL TO JUNCTION BLOCK, INSTRUMENT HARNESS, FLOOR HARNESS AND CHASSIS HARNESS. CORROSION ON PINS AND CONNECTORS CAUSING FAILURES AND SHORTS TO ALL SYSTEMS. THEY HAD AN OUTSIDE VENDOR SEAL AROUND WIRING HARNESS BEHIND INNER FENDER WELL. AT THIS POINT NONE OF THE WIRINGS NOR HARNESS WERE REPLACED. I WAS INFORMED THAT THIS WOULD ALL BE CUSTOMER PAY AND NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY AS I HAVE EXCEEDED THE 3/36 WARRANTY PERIOD. WIPERS HORN AND REMOTE UN/LOCK DON'T WORK. *TR

HEATER CONTROL KNOB TURNS VERY HARD AND NOW DOES NOT WORK AT ALL. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION. AT 65,000 MILES, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT TURN OFF WHEN THE KEY WAS RELEASED FROM THE IGNITION. THE ONLY WAY TO TURN OFF THE VEHICLE WAS BY REMOVING A FUSE. THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS WOULD ACTIVATE BY THEMSELVES. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE FAILURE WAS DUE TO A CORRODED WIRING HARNESS. THE FAILURE WAS CORRECTED TEMPORARILY, BUT THEN THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS, HIGH BEAMS, FOG LIGHTS, HEADLIGHTS, AND PARKING LIGHTS FAILED. HE TOOK THE VEHICLE BACK TO THE DEALER AND WAS INFORMED THAT FIVE WIRING HARNESSES NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE IS NOT CURRENTLY REPAIRED DUE TO THE COST OF THE REPAIR. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 65,000 AND FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 75,000.

I BOUGHT MY 2003 MITSUBISHI EVO SHORTLY AFTER RETURNING FROM A TOUR IN IRAQ IN 2006, AFTER A SHORT TIME OF DRIVING THE CAR I NOTICED A GRINDING SOUND COMING FROM THE CAR WHEN I LET THE CLUTCH OUT IN 1ST GEAR, AND NOW REVERSE AS WELL. I BOUGHT THE CAR UNDER ORIGINAL FACTORY WARRANTY AND WENT AS FAR AS TO PURCHASE THE PLATNUM EXTENDED WARRANTY. AFTER REPLACING THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS IN PARTS ON MY CAR IT HAS COME DOWN TO THE CLUTCH, WHICH IS A WEAR ITEM AND NOT COVERED. THE MORE DISTURBING PORTION OF THIS IS THAT I WAS TOLD ON MY SECOND VISIT TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR THIS PROBLEM THAT THE CAR WAS SOLD TO ME WITH AN AFTERMARKET CLUTCH, AND THAT SHOULD HAVE VOIDED THE ORIGINAL FACTORY WARRANTY IN THE FIRST PLACE, TO INCLUDE MY EXTENDED WARRANTY AS WELL. NOW I AM STUCK WITH THIS PROBLEM AND HAVE TO LOOK FOR LEGAL ASSISTANCE. *TR

KNOB ON AC/HEATER CONTROL BROKE, NOW STUCK ON AC. CAN NOT USE CAR IN COLD WEATHER AS WINDSHIELD FOGS UP MAKING THE CAR UNSAFE TO DRIVE. THIS IS A 2003 MIISUBISHI LANCER.*CN

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE TOP COAT OF CLEAR PAINT IS PEELING OFF OF THE DRIVER SIDE FENDER AND HOOD. THE DEALER HAS BEEN NOTIFIED. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 36,000 AND FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 35,000. UPDATED 03-25-08 *BF UPDATED 03/25/08 *TR

I PURCHASED A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER ES BRAND-NEW FROM A DEALERSHIP IN THE SUMMER OF THAT YEAR. SHORTLY AFTER PURCHASE, I REALIZED THE TEMPERATURE-CONTROL KNOB WAS STIFF AND WOULD HAVE TO BE FORCED TO SWITCH FROM HEAT TO COOL AND VICE VERSA. I TOOK IT INTO THE DEALERSHIP, WHERE A SERVICE TECHNICIAN OILED IT. THAT HELPED FOR A FEW MONTHS BEFORE IT STARTED STICKING AGAIN. BASICALLY, IT WOULD FEEL AS IT THE KNOB WAS STUCK BETWEEN HOT AND COLD. IT WOULD HAVE TO BE FORCED BEYOND THAT POINT. ONCE FORCED, IT WOULD EITHER NOT STICK IN THE MOST EXTREME TEMPERATURE SETTING (I.E. MAX AC OR HIGHEST HEAT SETTING) OR IT WOULD NOT MOVE MUCH AT ALL. IT WOULD OFTEN FEEL AS IF IT WERE ON THE VERGE OF BREAKING. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP IN 2005, WHERE I WAS TOLD IT WAS A COMMON COMPLAINT AMONG 2003 LANCER OWNERS. THE SERVICE TECH AT THAT TIME TOLD ME IT WOULD COST $800 TO FIX BUT THAT SO LONG AS THE HEATING AND AC WORKED MOST OF THE TIME, IT WOULD BE SMARTER TO HOLD OFF UNTIL MITSUBISHI ISSUED A RECALL. HE INDICATED THAT A RECALL WAS IMMINENT BECAUSE OF THE NUMBER OF COMPLAINTS HE WAS AWARE OF. THE KNOB ON MY CAR OFFICIALLY BROKE LAST WEEK. THERE IS STILL NO RECALL ON THE PART, BUT A SERVICE TECHNICIAN I SPOKE TO THIS MORNING SAID THAT MITSUBISHI RECENTLY RELEASED A FIX-IT KIT TO REPAIR THE PROBLEM. ACCORDING TO HIM, THAT IS THE GOOD NEWS. THE BAD NEWS IS THAT IT WOULD COST $1,000 TO REPAIR, BECAUSE THE ENTIRE DASH HAS TO BE REMOVED TO MAKE THE REPAIR. TOTAL ESTIMATED REPAIR TIME IS ABOUT 8 HOURS. IT'S MY BELIEF THAT THIS PROBLEM IS COMMON ENOUGH TO WARRANT A RECALL ON THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB AND COMPANY-PAID REPAIR. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE STEERING COLUMN FELL IN THE CONTACT'S LAP WHEN SHE PLACED THE KEY IN THE IGNITION. PRIOR TO THE FAILURE, SHE NOTICED THAT THE COLUMN FELT LOOSE. SHE WAS ADVISED TO TAKE THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER. TWO WEEKS LATER, BEFORE SHE ARRIVED AT THE DEALER, THE STEERING COLUMN FELL COMPLETELY OFF. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE FAILURE WAS CAUSED BY NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR AND IT SEEMED AS IF SOMEONE WAS PULLING ON THE STEERING WHEEL. THE VEHICLE HAS SINCE BEEN REPAIRED. THROUGH ONLINE RESEARCH, SHE FOUND NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS REGARDING THE STEERING COLUMN AND SHE FEELS THAT IT IS A MANUFACTURER DEFECT. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 104,624 AND THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN. UPDATED 12/12/2007 *BF UPDATED 12/12/07

MY STEERING COLUMN WAS SLIGHTLY LOOSE, BUT A MECHANIC ASSURED ME THERE NO PROBLEM. ABOUT 2 WEEKS LATER, THE ENTIRE STEERING COLUMN FELL INTO MY LAP AS I ATTEMPTED TO INSERT THE KEY INTO THE IGNITION. I WAS ABLE TO PUSH THE COLUMN BACK INTO PLACE AND GET THE CAR ACROSS THE STREET TO A MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP WHO SAID THE CAR WAS OUT OF WARRANTY AND HAD TOO MANY MILES. I DO NOT BELIEVE THAT THIS IS A WARRANTY ISSUE AND TOLD THE PERSON AT THE DEALERSHIP MY BELIEF. I ALSO ADVISED HIM THAT I HAD HAD CARS THAT WERE TOTALED OUT IN ACCIDENTS AND THE STEERING MECHANISM NEVER FELL OUT. IN ADDITION, I HAD ONE CAR THAT I PUT CLOSE TO 200,000 MILES ON IT, BUT THERE WAS NO PROBLEM WITH THE STEERING WHEEL AND COLUMN FALLING OUT. I CONTACTED MITSUBISHI AND GOT THE SAME RESPONSE REGARDING WEAR AND TEAR AND THE OUT OR WARRANTY SITUATION. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE ADJUSTER KNOB FOR THE DEFROSTER WAS VERY DIFFICULT TO TURN AND EVENTUALLY FAILED. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE TEMP CONTROL CABLE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THERE IS A TSB NHTSA ITEM NUMBER 10006466. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 27,000 AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 29,200.

SENSOR ONE HAD AN INTERNAL FAILURE. MITISUBISHI SERVICE TECH STATED IT WAS DUE TO THE BAD GAS IN NORTH CAROLINA. ACCORDING TO THAT IT WOULD BE MANUFACTURING PROBLEM. BUT WAS TOLD SINCE NO RECALLS, WOULD HAVE TO PAY $400 PLUS TAX TO HAVE IT FIXED. IF NOT FIXED WOULD AFFECT THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER AND WOULD CAUSE THE CAR NOT TO RUN. *TR

I BOUGHT THE MITSUBISHI LANCER IN JUNE 2004 WITH 29,361 MILES. NOVEMBER 24 2004 WITH 31,952 MILES WE TOOK THE CAR (WHICH IS MY DAUGHTERS) TO SANBERNARDINO MITSUBISHI FOR A FAN CONTROLLER RECALL # C0409ZXX INVOICE # 152167 AND EXPLAINED IT WAS HARD TO TURN THE HEATER CONTROLL KNOB THE SERVICE ADVISER # 25 GOT IN THE CAR AND TURNED THE KNOB HE SAID YEAH IT IS A LITTLE HARD TO TURN BUT THEY ARE MADE LIKE THAT. I TOLD HIM IT FELT LIKE IT WAS GOING TO BREAK AND HE SAID IT WONT AND ONCE AGAIN THEY ARE ALL MADE LIKE THAT BUT HE WOULD HAVE IT LOOKED AT. WE WERE TOLD THEY OILED IT AND SENT US ON OUR WAY. MY DAUGHTER TURNED THE KNOB ONLY WHEN SHE HAD TO BECAUSE SHE DIDN'T WANT IT TO BREAK. WE TOOK THE CAR BACK TO SAN BERNARDINO MITSUBISHI ON FEBRUARY 1 2006 WITH 37,320 MILES FOR A REFLASH RECALL # C0505JXX PCM INVOICE # 164087. WE TOLD THE SERVICE ADVISER CARLOS GONZALEZ WE ARE AGAIN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE HEATER CONTROLS KNOB BEING HARD TO TURN.AND HE SAID THEY GET THIS COMPLIANT ALL THE TIME. INVOICE # 164167 HE HAD THE HEATER CONTROL LINK PART # 7801A110 AND # MN185137HC CONTROL REPLACED ON FEBRUARY 3 2006. PER DSM. ON OCTOBER 30 2007 WITH 51,391 MILES I CALLED SAN BERNARDINO MITSUBISHI 909-884-7700 AND SPOKE TO MIKE SMITH IN SERVICE DEPARTMENT AND TOLD HIM OF MY RECURRING PROBLEM WITH HEATER CONTROL KNOB NOT WORKING.HE TOLD ME IT WOULD BE $900 DOLLARS TO FIX THE PROBLEM I WAS GIVEN THE PHONE NUMBER FOR MITSUBISH NORTH AMERICA CUSTOMER SERVICE 888-648-7820. I CALLED AND SPOKE TO LINDA WOULD NOT GIVE HER LAST NAME AND SHE SAID THAT THE REPLACED CONTROLLER WHICH WAS DONE 18 MONTHS AGO ONLY HAD A 12 MONTH WARRANTY THERE WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO. I HAVE READ NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS EXACT RECURRING PROBLEM ON THE NHTSA WEB SITE. THIS IS WITHOUT A DOUBT A DESIGN PROBLEM OF MITSUBISH?S. WHAT IS A PESON TO DO? JUST NOT BUY A MITSUBISHI? *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE SERVICE ENGINE SOON INDICATOR LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT TOOK HER VEHICLE TO BE SERVICED. THE DEALER INFORMED HER THAT THE FUEL TANK WAS LEAKING AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. SHE WAS INFORMED THAT THREE VALVES NEEDED TO BE REPLACED BECAUSE THEY WERE CAUSING AN EMISSIONS LEAK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PLASTIC COVER CRACKED AND THE BOLTS WERE RUSTED AND CORRODED. ONE OF THE BOLTS SNAPPED OFF AND THE ENTIRE GAS TANK NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. SHE PURCHASED AN EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR $1,500, BUT IT DOES NOT COVER THE FAILURE. THE REPAIR COST WOULD BE $1,500. THE PURCHASE DATE WAS UNKNOWN. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE 46,000.

IN RESEARCHING WHAT MIGHT BE WRONG WITH MY MITSUBISHI GALANT HEATER, I FIND IT IS A COMMON PROBLEM DESCRIBED TO THE TEE. NOT HAVING HEAT IN MY CAR AND LIVING IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST COULD PROVE TO BE DANGEROUS FOR MYSELF AND OTHERS AS VISIBILITY AND FREEZING WILL OCCUR AS I HAVE TO RUN THE COLD AIR ON MY WINDSHIELD TO SEE. *TR

2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. AXLE BEARING FAILED ON PASSENGER SIDE. I REPLACED IT. INNER TIE ROD TORE OUT OF OUTER TIE ROD. I REPLACED THEM. FOR SAFETY REASONS I DECIDED TO REPLACE THE CORRESPOND DRIVERS SIDE PARTS. WHEN I STARTED TO REMOVE THE HUB ASSEMBLY THE DRIVE AXLE FELL FROM THE CAR IN THREE PIECES. NO LOCAL OR NATIONAL CHAIN COULD LOCATE THE AXLE WHICH THEY ALL SAID COST ABOUT $75.00.MITSUBISHI TOLD ME IT WOULD BE $753.00. WHILE I AGREE THAT I HAVE NO CHOICE BUT TO REPLACE THE FAILED PART, I ALSO FEEL A FILE SHOULD BE OPENED SINCE THIS REPRESENTS A SAFETY ISSUE. *TR

I LAUNCHED MY CAR FROM ABOUT 5500RPM. I PREVIOUSLY HAD A NEW EXEDY CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL INSTALLED ABOUT 2 MONTHS EARLIER. THE CAR JUMPED BUT WOULDN'T GO ANYWHERE AFTER I LET THE CLUTCH OUT. I THOUGHT MAYBE FIRST GEAR WAS GONE BUT WHEN I TRIED ALL THE OTHER GEARS IT SEEMED AS IF THE CAR WAS IN NEUTRAL. I HAD THE CAR TAKEN TO A LOCAL PERFORMANCE SHOP AND THEY DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM AS BEING MY TRANSFER CASE. THE TOTAL COST FOR THE NEW OEM TRANSFER CASE WITH FRONT DIFFERENTIAL AND LABOR TO PUT IT IN WAS AROUND 3400. MITSUBISHI NEEDS TO ACT ON THIS PROBLEM BECAUSE I HAVE READ MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT IT AND HAVE HEARD MANY STORIES FROM EVO OWNERS ABOUT THEIR TRANSFER CASE ISSUES. *TR

I TOOK OUR 2003 OZ RALLY LANSER TO THE DEALER FOR A RECALL. I TOLD THEM THE HEATING AND COOLING KNOB WAS HARD TO TURN FROM HOT TO COLD AND FROM COLD TO HOT. I FELT LIKE IT WOULD BREAK IF YOU FORCE IT. THEY PUT OIL ON THE KNOB AND SAID THEY ARE ALL LIKE THAT ON THIS MODEL. IT IS NOW SO HARD TO TURN WE TRY NOT TO BECAUSE IT WILL BREAK. I HAVE READ ALL THE COMPLAINTS ON THIS MODEL AND IT SOUNDS LIKE A LOT OF PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM, BUT SOME OF THEM HAVE BROKEN THE KNOB STATING THAT IT COST THEM 500-900 DOLLARS TO GET FIXED. I FELL THAT THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL IF THAT KNOB WAS TO BREAK IN A ICE STORM YOU WOULD NOT BE ABLE TO TURN THE DEFROSTER OR HEATER ON. IN THE MID-WEST THAT COULD BE A SAFETY ISSUE. *TR

HEATER CONTROL KNOB BROKE, AS IN EVERY MITSUBISHI LANCER, AND NO RECALLS YET. *JB

I HAVE REPLACED PART #138110 BLOWER MOTOR 3 TIMES IN THE LAST 7 MONTHS. APPARENTLY THERE IS WATER/CONDENSATION THAT BUILDS UP AND SHUTS DOWN THE MOTOR. TODAY, THE MOTOR STOPPED AGAIN. I AM NOW HAVING TO TAKE IT TO BE REPAIRED FOR THE 4TH TIME AND I AM SURE NOT THE LAST TIME. THE FRONT AND REAR PASSENGER FLOOR AREAS ARE SOAKING WET. I PUT A NEW TOWEL ON FLOOR AREAS EVERY DAY AND THEY ARE DRIPPING WET BY THE END OF THE DAY. WE HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO FIGURE OUT WHAT THE EXACT PROBLEM IS. IT IS DANGEROUS NOT TO HAVE A FAN FOR DEFROST/DEFOG ISSUES. I WENT ALL WINTER LAST WINTER WITHOUT ANY HEAT/DEFROST. I AM SO TIRED OF REPLACING THIS PART. THE REPAIRS ARE REALLY TAKING A TOLL ON MY FINANCES TOO. IT IS VERY INCONVENIENT TO HAVE TO KEEP TAKING THE CAR IN TO BE REPAIRED. *JB

WHEN I FIRST GOT THE LANCER IN 2003 ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS I NOTICED THAT THE KNOB FOR THE AIR AND HEAT WAS REALLY DIFFICULT TO TURN. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER, AND WAS TOLD THAT IT WAS JUST A LITTLE STICKY , AND IF I KEPT TURNING IT WOULD WORK ITSELF OUT AND BE FINE. I AVOIDED USING IT AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE BECAUSE IT NEVER GOT BETTER. A YEAR OR SO LATER I HAD TO TAKEN THE VEHICLE TO DEALER FOR A FACTORY RECALL, AND DURING THAT VISIT I ONCE AGAIN ASKED ABOUT THE KNOB. THE TECHNICIAN LOOKED UNDER THE PANEL AND SAID IT WAS JUST STICKING A BIT AND PUT SOME GREASE ON THE GEARS AND SAID TO JUST WORK IT, TURN IT BACK AND FORTH, AND IT WOULD WORK ITSELF OUT. IT WAS FINE FOR A COUPLE DAYS BUT WENT BACK TO THE WAY IT WAS SHORTLY THERE AFTER. FINALLY, A FEW WEEKS AGO, WHILE ON MY WAY TO THE AIRPORT TO PICK UP A FRIEND, I WENT TO TURN THE HEAT ON AND THE KNOB JUST SNAPPED OFF. THIS TIME WHEN I TOOK IT IN TO THE DEALER THEY TOLD ME SINCE THE ROD THAT CONNECTED THE KNOB TO THE GEARS INSIDE WAS WHAT SNAPPED IT WOULD BE ABOUT $500-$600 TO REPAIR. HE EVEN ASKED WHY I NEVER HAD IT LOOKED AT AND FIXED BEFORE IT SNAPPED OFF. I TOLD HIM I DID NUMEROUS TIMES AND WAS BLOWN OFF EACH TIME. BUT NOW THAT IT WAS AN ACTUAL PROBLEM . THEY WERE WILLING TO FIX IT FOR A FEE OF COURSE. UPON DOING SOME RESEARCH I REALIZED THAT OTHER PEOPLE HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH THEIR LANCERS, AND HAD SIMILAR PROBLEMS TRYING TO GET IT FIXED. THIS WAS THE CAUSE FOR COMPLAINT. THE DEALER WAS NOT WILLING TO FIX IT. WHEN I MENTIONED THE PROBLEM NUMEROUS TIMES WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS UNDER WARRANTY. NOW THIS HAS TURNED INTO A COSTLY PROBLEM THAT I BELIEVE IS A DEFECT IN THE VEHICLES. *AK

HEATER SELECTOR FROM HOT TO COLD DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY. AFTER A SHORT TIME, DID NOT WORK AT ALL; BENT CABLE. PURCHASED NEW CABLE, BENT NEW CABLE. FOUND PROBLEM TO BE NOT IN KNOB, BUT IN THE ACTUAL LEVER/GEAR THE CABLE TURNS. ESTIMATE IT NEEDS A NEW HEATER CORE (BEST GUESS FROM SERVICE SHOP). *JB

WHEN I FIRST GOT THE LANCER IN 2003 ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS I NOTICED WAS THAT THE KNOB FOR THE AIR AND HEAT WAS REALLY DIFFICULT TO TURN. I TOOK IT INTO THE DEALER AND WAS TOLD THAT IT WAS "JUST A LITTLE STICKY" AND IF I KEPT TURNING IT, IT WOULD WORK ITSELF OUT AND BE FINE. I AVOIDED USING IT AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE BECAUSE IT NEVER GOT BETTER. A YEAR OR SO LATER I HAD TO TAKE MY VEHICLE IN FOR A FACTORY RECALL AND DURING THAT VISIT I ONCE AGAIN ASKED ABOUT THE KNOB. THE TECH LOOKED UNDER THE PANEL AND SAID IT WAS JUST STICKING A BIT AND PUT SOME GREASE ON THE GEARS AND SAID TO JUST WORK IT, TURNING IT BACK AND FORTH, AND IT WOULD WORK ITSELF OUT. IT WAS FINE FOR A COUPLE DAYS BUT WENT BACK TO THE WAY IT WAS SHORTLY THERE AFTER. FINALLY, A FEW WEEKS AGO, WHILE ON MY WAY TO THE AIRPORT TO PICK UP A FRIEND, I WENT TO TURN THE HEAT ON AND THE KNOB JUST SNAPPED OFF. THIS TIME WHEN I TOOK IT IN TO THE DEALER THEY TOLD ME SINCE THE ROD THAT CONNECTS THE KNOB TO THE GEARS INSIDE WAS WHAT SNAPPED IT WOULD BE ABOUT $500-$600 TO REPAIR. HE EVEN ASKED WHY I NEVER HAD IT LOOKED AT AND FIXED BEFORE IT SNAPPED OFF. I TOLD HIM I DID NUMEROUS TIMES AND WAS BLOWN OFF EACH TIME. BUT NOW THAT IT IS AN ACTUAL PROBLEM THEY ARE WILLING TO FIX IT, FOR A FEE OF COURSE. UPON DOING SOME RESEARCH I REALIZED THAT OTHER PEOPLE HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH THEIR LANCERS AND HAVE HAD SIMILAR PROBLEMS TRYING TO GET IT FIXED. THIS IS CAUSE FOR COMPLAINT, THE DEALER WAS NOT WILLING TO FIX IT WHEN I MENTIONED THE PROBLEM NUMEROUS TIMES WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS UNDER WARRANTY. NOW THIS HAS TURNED INTO A COSTLY PROBLEM THAT I BELIEVE IS A DEFECT IN THE VEHICLES. *TR

MY VEHICLE HAD REPEATEDLY SHOWN A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FOR A MISFIRE CODE. EVERY TIME I GET THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT,THE CAR VIBRATES AND LOSES AT LEAST 45% POWER. I FEEL THAT THE CAR IS VERY UNSAFE TO DRIVE. I HAVE BROUGHT THE CAR FOR DIAGNOSIS 7 PLUS TIMES. HELL, THEY EVEN REBUILT THE ENGINE IN AN ATTEMPT TO FIX THE PROBLEM! THAT OBVIOUSLY DID NOT CURE THE PROBLEM. NOW I AM OUT OF WARRANTY.*AK

(1) THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL ON MY 2003 LANCER ES WAS ALWAYS A BIT HARD TO MOVE. 2) NOW THE SWITCH HAS GOTTEN SO HARD TO CONTROL THAT IT FEELS ALMOST AS IF IT DOES NOT WORK WHEN YOU FINALLY PLACE IT IN THE RIGHT POSITION. 3) I TOOK IT INTO MY LOCAL DEALERSHIP MAYWOOD MITSUBISHI, NJ WHERE THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED AND THEY SAID IT IS A KNOWN ISSUE AND WANTED TO CHARGE ME 700 DOLLARS TO FIX IT. THIS IS A DEFECT IN THE VEHICLE THAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN MADE A RECALL. I KNOW FOR A FACT THE LANCER FROM 02-04 HAS HAD THIS SAME ISSUE. MITSUBISHI DOES NOT RESUME RESPONSIBILITY FOR THEIR FAULTY SWITCHES. THIS GOES TO SHOW HOW MUCH THEY "BACK" THEIR PROBLEMS.*AK

WHEN I BOUGHT THE LANCER IN 2003 THE FIRST THING I NOTICED WAS THE KNOB FOR THE AIR AND HEAT WAS REALLY HARD TO TURN. MY DAD AND I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALER AND EXPLAINED IT WAS HARD TO TURN. THE SALESMAN GOT IN THE CAR AND TURNED THE KNOB HE SAID YEAH IT IS A LITTLE HARD TO TURN BUT THEY ARE MADE LIKE THAT. I TOLD HIM IT FELT LIKE IT WAS GOING TO BREAK AND HE SAID IT WONT AND ONCE AGAIN THEY ARE ALL MADE LIKE THAT. I ONLY TURNED THE KNOB ONLY WHEN I HAD TO BECAUSE I DIDN'T WANT IT TO BREAK. I TOOK IT BACK IN AND THE DEALER SAID THEY GET THIS COMPLIANT ALL THE TIME AND IT WOULD BE $800 DOLLARS TO FIX THE PROBLEM. I TOLD HIM IF THEY GET A LOT OF COMPLAINTS MAYBE THERE IS A DEFECT. IN 2006 I WAS ON MY WAY HOME FROM A TRIP AND I TURNED THE KNOB FROM AIR TO HEAT AND IT BROKE OFF. WHEN I GOT HOME THE NEXT DAY I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY TOLD ME I SHOULD HAVE BROUGHT THE CAR IN FOR A CHECK I EXPLAINED THAT I DID AND EVERY TIME THEY BLEW IT OFF. HE SAID WELL TO FIX IT, AND IT WILL COST $800-$900 DOLLARS. IS THIS CAUSE FOR COMPLAINT. *AK

HEATER KNOB DOES NOT TURN TO HOT AND NO HEAT.... COLD WEATHER IN CANADA

AFTER PURCHASING MY VEHICLE I NOTICED TWO THINGS, ONE THAT IS TROUBLESOME AND THE OTHER A MAJOR INCONVENIENCE. ONE DAY AFTER STEPPING OUT OF MY VEHICLE WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS RUNNING WITH THE A/C ON I HEARD A LOUD RATTLING SOUND EVERY TIME THE A/C KICKED ON. I TOOK IT INTO A DEALERSHIP WHILE I WAS HAVING THEM CHECK MY TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB (THE OTHER PROBLEM) AND TOLD THEM ABOUT IT. THEY JUST PUT GREASE ON THE KNOB AND TOLD ME THAT THE A/C IS SUPPOSED TO SOUND LIKE THAT. WELL, JUST THIS LAST FALL MY A/C COMPRESSOR (I THINK IT IS THE COMPRESSOR) BLEW OUT AND STARTED SMOKING. I THOUGHT THAT THE FREON WAS EMPTY BUT IT IS NOT. IS THIS LEGITIMATE FOR A COMPLAINT? *JB

TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB BROKE COMPLETELY OFF. AT FIRST IT WAS HARD TO TURN AND WHEN IT WAS SWITCHED OVER TO HEAT FOR WINTER, IT BROKE OFF. WENT TO MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP; WAS TOLD THEY GET THAT AT LEAST 3 TIMES A WEEK THEN WE WERE QUOTED AROUND $900 TO FIX(PARTS PLUS LABOR). SOUND TO ME IF THEY GET 3 A WEEK THEN MAYBE THEY SHOULDN'T BE CHARGING ANYBODY AND FIXING IT SEEING AS IT IS DEFECTIVE. *JB

I AM CURRENTLY ON THE 5TH TRANSFER CASE FOR MY 03 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION 8. I HAD 2 GO OUT UNDER WARRANTY, ANOTHER REBUILT AND NOW I AM ON MY LAST ONE. THE FIRST WENT AT ~33K, REPLACED AND BROKEN WITHIN A MONTH REGULAR HIGHWAY DRIVING. *JB

JACK WAS ON LEVEL SURFACE JACKED UP THE CAR TO REPLACE A FLAT AFTER I BEGAN TO PUT THE SPARE ON THE JACK BENT IN HALF CAUSING THE WHOLE FRONT OF THE CAR TO LAND INTO THE GROUND. *NM

TL*- THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE PARKED AND ATTEMPTING TO DRIVE THE 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION HE TURNED ON THE IGNITION WHILE IN NEUTRAL AND THE VEHICLE LUNGED FORWARD AND FAILED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER STATED EVERYONE WITH THE SAME VEHICLE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.

AC/HEATER KNOB IS DEFECTIVE, CAN'T CHANGE BETWEEN A/C AND HEAT TO EFFECTIVELY USE DEFROSTER. *NM

MY HEATER KNOB IS BROKE. IT HAS BEEN VERY HARD TO TURN SINCE I BOUGHT THIS CAR. IT WAS USED BUT THIS IS MY SECOND CAR OF THE SAME TYPE. IT HAD THE SAME PROBLEM IN THE CAR BEFORE THIS ONE AND THERE WAS ONLY A 1 YEAR DIFFERENCE IN THEM. I AM NOT THE ONLY PERSON WITH THIS PROBLEM. MOST OF THE PEOPLE I KNOW ON THE INTERNET FORUM HAS THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THIS CAR. *JB

WHILE TRAVELING 65 MPH MY TRANSFER CASE ON MY 2003 MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION UNEXPLAINABLE BEGAN TO MAKE A LOUD WHINING NOISE, ALTHOUGH ONLY HAVING ROUGHLY 13,500 MILES. AS I PULLED THE CAR OVER I COULD HERE THAT THERE WAS A METALLIC CLICKING SOUND COMING FROM THE TRANSFER CASE ALSO. TO CORRECT THIS THE TRANSFER CASE WILL NEED TO BE COMPLETELY REPLACED. *NM

AFTER ONLY 8057 MILES ON MY 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION, MY TRANSFER CASE STARTED TO WHINE QUITE BADLY. AFTER READING SOME TECH ARTICLES, I FOUND THAT THIS IS NOT AN UNCOMMON FAILURE. I ALSO KNOW THAT MITSUBISHI HAS HAD TRANSFER CASE RECALLS IN THE PAST DUE TO THEIR POOR REAR SEAL DESIGN. THE RECALLS WERE BASED OFF OF LAWSUITS AND DEATHS TO INDIVIDUALS DRIVING THEIR VEHICLE AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS WHEN ALL FOUR WHEELS HAVE LOCKED ON THEM CAUSING CATASTROPHIC LOSS OF VEHICLE CONTROL. BASED ON MITSUBISHI'S TRACK RECORD, AND THEIR KNOWLEDGE OF LIFE THREATENING CONDITIONS UNDER TRANSFER CASE FAILURE, IT IS A NEGLIGENT ACT FOR THEM TO OVERLOOK THIS PROBLEM. A RECALL IS NECESSARY FOR PUBLIC SAFETY! *JB

2003 LANCER OVERHEATED AND RAN ROUGH CAUSING LOSS OF COOLANT. MECHANIC DETERMINED THERE WAS A BLOWN HEAD GASKET. *TS THE CONSUMER THOUGHT THE PROBLEM MAY HAVE BEEN RELATED TO THE RECALL THAT WAS PERFORMED ON THE VEHICLE PREVIOUSLY. *JB

I TURNED THE HOT/COLD DIAL TO HOT ONE WINTER MORNING AND THE CABLE SNAPPED THERE FOR THE HEAT DID NOT WORK ANYMORE. I TOOK IT IN FOR REPAIRS, THEY REPLACED THE CABLE $300 LATER IT SNAPPED AGAIN 2 MONTHS LATER. NO THE MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP IS TELLING ME THAT ITS THE HEATER BOX THAT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AND ITS GOING TO COST ME $2000 TO HAVE IT REPLACE. SO NOW ITS NOVEMBER 15 AND I DON'T HAVE ANY HEAT! *NM

DT*: THE CONTACT STATED THE HEATING AND COOLING CONTROL KNOB FRACTURED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE SERVICE DEALER, WHO DETERMINED THAT THE HEATING AND COOLING CONTROL KNOB WAS REDESIGNED AND THAT THERE WERE NONE OF THE ORIGINAL KNOBS IN STOCK.*AK

VEHICLE WAS BOUGHT USED. STILL HAS REMAINING FACTORY POWERTRAIN WARRANTY. VEHICLE HAD CLUTCH PROBLEMS WHEN I TOOK DELIVERY OF VEHICLE IN JULY. DEALER WAS INFORMED OF PROBLEM IMMEDIATELY AFTER TEST DRIVING VEHICLE. DEALER PROTESTED A REPLACEMENT. HAD SERVICE RECORDS PULLED FOR VEHICLE. CLUTCH WAS REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY FOR FIRST OWNER. DEALER REPLACED DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE. LEFT ASSEMBLY LINE THROWOUT BEARING ON VEHICLE. STATED THAT IT IS A "NON-WEAR" ITEM. THROWOUT BEARING FAILED TO DISENGAGE CAUSING DISC FRICTION MATERIAL TO BE "SPUN" SOME TIME BACK. DEALER WAS INFORMED OF THIS INCIDENT. AGAIN, PROTESTED REPLACEMENT STATING IT IS A "NON-WARRANTY ITEM". CLUTCH IS CONSIDERED A WEAR ITEM, EVEN THOUGHT IT IS THE INTEGRAL LINK IN THE POWERTRAIN ASSEMBLY. CLUTCH COMPLETELY FAILED AND LEFT THIS AUTHOR STRANDED 45 MILES FROM HOME, ON THIS DATE. DEALER AGAIN NOTIFIED AND ONCE AGAIN, I WAS DENIED A CLAIM. *JB

WHEN I TURN ON THE HEAT IN MY CAR THE ENTIRE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE INTERIOR OF MY CAR FLOODS.. NOT A LITTLE LEAK, ACTUAL FLOODS ?? THE A/C FAN NO LONGER TURN ON UNLESS YOU PUT IT ON THE MAX. SETTING MY CAR ONLY HAS 44K MILES ON IT AND THIS SHOULDN'T BE HAPPENING. *JB

3RD GEAR SYNRO WENT BAD AFTER 32000 MILES. *JB

P0300 MULTI-CYLINDER RANDOM MISFIRE. AFTER MANY ATTEMPTS MADE MY MITSUBISHI, THIS PROBLEM HAS NEVER BEEN FIXED. ON AVERAGE, THIS HAPPENS 3-4 TIMES DAILY, EVERYDAY AND HINDERS DRIVEABILITY. MITSUBISHI HAS ISSUED PARTS TO BE WARRANTED AND HAS DENIED ALL RESPONSIBILITY. MITSUBISHI HAS QUOTED THAT THE SES (CHECK ENGINE LIGHT) IN NO WAY, WHEN ILLUMINATED, AFFECTS DRIVEABILITY, VALUE, MECHANICAL FUNCTIONS OF THE VEHICLE. THEREFORE, IN SHORT, THEY ARE CLAIMING THAT THE LIGHT IS JUST FOR SHOW. I HAVE WRITTEN PROOF FROM MITSUBISHI WITH THAT STATEMENT DENYING ALL CLAIMS AND NOT TAKING ANY RESPONSIBILITY. *NM

HEATER WENT OUT, AND AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO HAVE REPAIRED, WAS INFORMED HEATER CORE WAS DEFECTIVE. REPAIRING/REPLACING HEATER CORE IS AN EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE PROCEDURE!! *NM

OUR 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER ES HAS ONLY 15,520 MILES ON IT AND WE'VE HAD TO REPLACE THE FRONT BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS. WE TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND I ASKED IF THERE WAS AN ISSUE WITH THE BRAKES ON THIS MODEL OF MITSUBISHI, EXPLAINING THAT MY WIFE DRIVES THIS CAR AND IT IS PARKED IN A COVERED GARAGE, AS EVIDENCED BY THE EXCELLENT CONDITION AND LOW MILEAGE. I WAS TOLD THIS SEEMS TO BE LOW MILEAGE FOR THE FRONT BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS TO REQUIRE REPLACEMENT, BUT THAT HAPPENS. *NM

I BOUGHT MY 2003 LANCER ES WHEN IT HAD 16,000 MILES ON IT, BY ABOUT 30,000 MILES I NOTICED THAT THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SEEMED TO BE SLIPPING, SOMETIMES WHEN DRIVING AND I WOULD LET UP ON ACCELERATOR TO SLOW AND THEN WOULD DEPRESS ACCELERATOR AGAIN THE CAR WOULD ACT LIKE IT WAS IN NEUTRAL, CAR DID NOT ACCELERATE, THIS HAPPENED ON THE HIGHWAY AND AT SLOW SPEEDS, 30 MILES AN HOUR OR SLOWER. ON 8-25-05 I TOOK THE CAR IN TO THE DEALERSHIP AT NORTHTOWNE MITSUBISHI AND REPORTED THIS PROBLEM AND THAT THE RIGHT PASSENGER BALL JOINT HAD FAILED INSPECTION AT 34000 MILES. I ASKED THE DEALER TO LOOK AT TRANSMISSION AT THE SAME TIME, I WAS TOLD THEY WOULD CHECK IT OUT, I WAS TOLD THAT THIS TYPE OF TRANSMISSION DEVELOPED A MEMORY AND IF ONE PERSON DROVE IT HARDER THAT ANOTHER THIS COULD HAPPEN, SOUNDED LIKE A BUNCH OF HOOEY TO ME, BUT I DON'T KNOW MUCH ABOUT CARS. I TOOK THE CAR BACK IN ON DEC. 30, 2005 FOR A RECALL ON CAR,SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE EMISSIONS AND AGAIN COMPLAINED ABOUT TRANSMISSION, WAS TOLD AGAIN, NOTHING TO WORRY ABOUT. NOW MY CAR IS MAKING A WHINING NOISE, TOOK THE CAR TO A GOODYEAR SERVICE CENTER AND WAS TOLD MY TRANSMISSION WAS THE PROBLEM AND NEEDS REPAIR, MY CAR HAS APPROX 43000 MILES ON IT. THE DEALER NEVER PUT ON MY SERVICE TICKETS TO LOOK AT TRANSMISSION, JUST TO CHECK OVER VEHICLE. I FEEL THEY WERE TRYING TO PUT ME OFF TILL MY CAR WENT OUT OF WARRANTY. MY POWERTRAIN IS NOW STILL UNDER WARRANTY BUT THE REST IS NOT. I AM VERY UPSET. *NM

ONGOING PROBLEMS WITH VEHICLE BRAKES WHICH SEVERELY LIMITS STOPPING ABILITY. INTERMITTENT SEVERE VIBRATION IN FRONT END OF VEHICLE DURING LIGHT TO MODERATE BRAKING, ESPECIALLY AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS (45-70 MPH). VIBRATION AND RESULTING LOSS OF TRACTION AND CONTROL OF VEHICLE VERSUS ROAD SURFACE GREATLY REDUCES STOPPING CAPABILITY OF VEHICLE. THIS PROBLEM ALSO APPEARS TO NEGATIVELY EFFECT ABS OPERATION SINCE SMOOTH BRAKING CANNOT BE APPLIED AND THEREFORE ABS WILL NOT ENGAGE IN MOST INSTANCES. VEHICLE HAS BEEN INSPECTED SEVERAL TIMES BY DEALER, BUT THEY HAVE BEEN SLOW AND UNCOOPERATIVE IN RESOLVING THE PROBLEM. I HAVE ALSO FORWARDED THE DEALER AND THE REGIONAL SERVICE DIRECTOR COPIES OF POSTINGS ON SEVERAL VEHICLE/MAKE RELATED WEB FORUMS (E.G. EVOLUTIONM.NET) DESCRIBING SIMILAR PROBLEMS WITH BRAKING IN THIS VEHICLE ACROSS THE US. *NM

CAR HAD MANUAL TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS ROUGHLY AT 30K, TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS AGAIN, NEEDED TO BE REPLACED, NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. CAR IS RUSTING ON FRAME, ON EXTERIOR, CARPET INSIDE IS PAPER THIN, ROAD SALT HAD EATEN THROUGH IT - ALREADY HAVE VISIBLE RUST ON WHEEL WELL. THIS CAR IS PATHETIC, WOULDN'T GIVE THIS MAKE TO MY WORSE ENEMY. I WILL BE MAKING ANOTHER PHONE CALL TO MITSUBISHI MOTORS. DEFINITELY A LEMON IN EVERY SENSE OF THE WORD. *NM

PAINT ON MY 03 EVO BEGAN FLAKING OFF, ROCK CHIPS BY BOTH BACK PASSENGER DOORS, 24K MILES AND I HAVE TOO MANY ROCK CHIPS EVERYWHERE, MY 98 CAVALIER DOESN'T HAVE THIS MANY ROCK CHIPS. *JB

03 EVO HEARD GRINDING NOISES IN MY TRANNY OR TRANSFER CASE AREA @ 15K MILES.. TOOK TO DEALER AND THEY TOLD ME THEY WON'T CHECK IT IF ITS NOT BROKEN..THEY DID REPLACE A DRIVE SHAFT BUT NOISE WAS STILL THERE.. MY CLUTCH IS NOW SLIPPING @ 24K.. *JB

MY 2003 MITSUBISIHI LANCER OZ IS EXPERIENCING SOME TYPE OF PROBLEM WITH THE REAR SUSPENSION. WE'VE HAD THE CAR FOR 3 YEARS AND IT HAS 45,000 MILES, AND WE'VE DRIVEN IN VERY GENTLY. MOST OF THE 45K ARE HIGHWAY MILES FROM COMMUTING TO WORK. THERE IS A HORRIBLE SQUEAKING NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. THERE IS NO REASON THIS VEHICLE SHOULD HAVE ANY PROBLEM WITH THE REAR SUSPENSION, YET IT DOES, AND WE'RE NO LONGER COVERED BY THE WARRANTY SO WE HAVE TO PAY $75 TO EVEN GET IT LOOKED AT. *JB

EVER SINCE I BOUGHT MY CAR 2 YEARS AGO IT HAS SPUTTERED AND JERKED BUT AT FIRST NOT THAT BAD. THE LAST YEAR HAS BEEN THE WORST. IT STAYS REVVED UP AND THEN IT WILL KICK INTO GEAR. FINALLY CHRISTMAS EVE IT BROKE DOWN. THE MECHANIC TOLD ME IT IS A HAIR LINE CRACK ABOUT 2 INCHES LONG ON THE TRANSMISSION HOUSING. SURE ENOUGH THERE IS AND I HAVE A DEAD CAR. *JB

CLUTCH FAILED AT 16K MILES AFTER 18 MONTHS OF OWNERSHIP. THE DEALER OFFERED TO EXAMINE IT FOR POSSIBLE WARRANTY COVERAGE, BUT BECAUSE OF PARTICIPATION IN AUTOCROSS EVENTS, THE WARRANTY CLAIM WOULD HAVE BEEN DENIED. HOWEVER, AUTOCROSSING DID NOT CONTRIBUTE ANY SIGNIFICANT WEAR TO THE CLUTCH ANY MORE SO THAN NORMAL EVERY DAY DRIVING. AS A 25 YEAR, SEASONED DRIVER OF MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS, THIS WAS THE FIRST CLUTCH I'VE EVER HAD FAIL ON A VEHICLE. BASED ON FEEDBACK FROM OTHER EVO OWNERS, VIA THE EVOLUTIONM.NET WEB SITE, I REPLACED THE CLUTCH WITH A NON-STOCK CLUTCH DUE TO THE INHERENT WEAKNESS OF THE STOCK PART. *NM

SLAVE CYLINDER SUDDENLY WENT OUT. *NM

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SLIPS/SKIPS WHILE SPEEDING UP AROUND TWENTY FIVE MILES PER HOUR, AND THIS OCCURS WHEN BREAKING QUICKLY. WHEN BREAKING QUICKLY, CAR WILL THEN JUMP FORWARD WHEN THE TRANSMISSION CATCHES. I BELIEVE THIS HAS ALWAYS SLIGHTLY BEEN THERE, BUT I BELIEVE MY SLOW DRIVING HAS MASKED THE ISSUE. I HAD THE TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGED AND THEN THE DEALER DID TWO RECALL CHANGES, AND AFTER THE SKIPPING ISSUES WAS VERY MUCH THERE. AFTER READING THE OTHER COMPLAINTS, I AM SURE THIS IS THE TIP OF THE ICEBERG. PRD. *NM

THE HANDLE ON THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE COMES OUT OF ITS PLACE. THE HATCHBACK ON THE OUTLANDER NO LONGER CAN STAY UP ON ITS OWN, THE ARM THAT HOLDS IT UP IS DEFECTIVE.

I HAVE A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCE OZ RALLY, CAR HAS 32,000 MILES ON IT, I PURCHASED IT USED. I HAVE HAD A PROBLEM WHERE SOMETIMES I WOULD SMELL BURNING ODOR FROM THE VENTS. I THINK CAR RUNS VERY RUFF AND IM NOT SURE WHAT IT IS.. I BELIEVE IT'S THE TRANSMISSION FROM READING ALL THE POST ON HERE.. AND ALSO THE SHIFTING IS ROUGH. I WILL BE TAKING IT TO A DEALER SOON.. HOPEFULLY THEY WONT GIVE ME THE RUN AROUND AND FIX THE PROBLEM RIGHT AWAY.. THANKS! *NM

MITSUBISHI MOTORS WILL NOT ACCEPT LIABILITY AND PAY TO HAVE A FAILURE OF A FACTORY WELD REPAIRED ON THE RIGHT FRONT ENGINE CROSS MEMBER OF MY 2003 MITSUBISHI MONTERO WHICH IS STILL UNDER THE FACTORY WARRANTY. MY INSURANCE ADJUSTER HAS SUBMITTED A LETTER INFORMING MITSUBISHI'S VEHICLE DEPARTMENT THAT THE DAMAGE TO MY VEHICLE IS DUE TO FAILURE FROM IMPROPER WELDING. I HAVE ALSO BEEN INFORMED BY A CERTIFIED BODY SHOP THAT THE PART WAS NOT WELDED PROPERLY. MITSUBISHI HAS REFUSED TO PARTICIPATE IN REPAIRING THE VEHICLE SINCE AUGUST 12, 2005. *JB

A FEW WEEKS AGO MY VEHICLE BECOME VERY TOUGH TO SHIFT OUT OF PARK WHEN PARKED ON ANY INCLINE OR, UNEVEN SURFACE. ONCE THE GEAR SELECTOR WOULDN'T EVEN MOVE AND THREE PEOPLE HAD TO STAND BEHIND THE CAR AND PUSH IT FORWARD TO ALLOW ME TO SHIFT OUT OF PARK. I'VE TAKEN IT TO CITY MITSUBISHI IN JACKSONVILLE FL. AND THEY HAVE INFORMED ME THAT THE BEST THING TO DO IS STOP, PUT IT IN NEUTRAL, SET THE E-BRAKE, THEN PUT IT IN PARK. I FEEL THIS IS UN-NECESSARY CONSIDERING IT ONLY HAS 25,000 MILES, I'M THE ORIGINAL OWNER, IT'S UNDER FACTORY WARRANTY, AND IT WASN'T DOING THIS 1000 MILES AGO. I HAVE LEFT IT THERE AND WILL BE CONTACTING MITSUBISHI MOTORS ON MONDAY TO SEE WHAT MY NEXT COURSE OF ACTION IS. *NM

FAILURE OF 5TH GEAR. MITSUBISHI HAS A CURRENT TSB RELEASED ON THIS FAILURE AND DENIED REPAIR UNDER WARRANTY. THE WARRANTY CLAIM WAS DENIED DUE TO THE FACT THAT AN AFTERMARKET CLUTCH, OF HIGHER QUALITY WAS INSTALLED ON THE VEHICLE AFTER FAILURE OF MANUFACTURER INSTALLED CLUTCH. *JB

SINCE I HAVE HAD MY 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION VIII I HAVE HAD 4 PROBLEMS RELATED TO THE DRIVETRAIN. FIRST AT 1300 MILES, MY CLUTCH WENT OUT. IT WAS NOT WARRANTED EVEN THOUGH THE MITSUBISHI WARRANTY SAID 12000 MILES OR 12 MONTHS. THEN AGAIN AT ABOUT 14000 MILES THE CLUTCH FAILED AGAIN, AND IT WAS STILL NOT A WARRANTY PROBLEM. FINALLY AT ABOUT 30,000 MILES AROUND THE MIDDLE OF FEBRUARY THIS YEAR THE CENTER DIFFERENTIAL BLEW, CAUSING THE ENTIRE TRANSMISSION TO FAIL. FORTUNATELY THAT WAS WARRANTED, ALTHOUGH I STILL HAD TO PAY FOR A THIRD CLUTCH. I WAS WITH OUT MY CAR FOR OVER A MONTH WHILE I HAD TO WAIT FOR THE DEALERSHIP TO FIND A TRANSMISSION TO REPLACE MINE. *JB

2003 MONTERO SPORT XLS--- STUDDERS/JERKS AT 30+ MPH WHILES DRIVING DOWN THE RD, HAS BEEN IN SHOP 9 TIMES

I OWN A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION THAT WAS PURCHASED BRAND NEW FROM THE DEALERSHIP IN THE MIDDLE OF 2003. THE CAR HAD RUN FINE UNTIL ABOUT MAY 12TH OF THIS YEAR. THE CAR STARTED PERFORMING ODDLY. THE TURBO AND ENGINE WOULD NOT PROVIDE FULL POWER AT RANDOM TIMES WHILE DRIVING. I WAS INFORMED BY MECHANICS THAT IT COULD POSSIBLY BE A VACUUM LINE LEAK OR HOSE LEAK. ACTING ON THEIR ADVICE, I PURCHASED FROM THE DEALERSHIP REPLACEMENT FACTORY VACUUM HOSES AND REPLACED THEM ON THE CAR. THIS DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. I THEN DECIDED TO TAKE MY CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP BEING THAT THE CAR WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY AND TOLD THEM THE PROBLEM. DURING THIS TIME THE ENGINE HAD ALSO PICKED UP A SLIGHT TICKING SOUND. AFTER TWO DAYS I WAS CONTACTED SAYING THEY COULD NOT FIND ANY PROBLEM OTHER THAN MY INTERCOOLER HOSES BEING A LITTLE LOOSE FROM HAVING REMOVED AND REPLACED THEM TO DO THE HOSE INSTALL. I WAS THEN CHARGED 200$ FOR LABOR. I PICKED THE CAR UP AND IMMEDIATELY UPON HEADING HOME COULD FEEL THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE ENGINE/TURBO AND TICKING. I TOOK THE CAR BACK IMMEDIATELY AND LET THE SERVICE MANAGER HEAR THE TICKING AND INFORMED HIM THAT THE CAR WAS STILL HAVING ENGINE PROBLEMS. HE ASKED ME TO BRING IT BACK ON MONDAY AND THEY WOULD THEN ADDRESS THE ISSUE. I RETURNED MY VEHICLE TO THE SHOP THAT MONDAY AND WAS NOT CONTACTED UNTIL I CALLED THEM ON THURSDAY ONLY TO BE TOLD MY WARRANTY WAS NOT BEING HONORED BECAUSE SOMEONE HAD BEEN 'MESSING AROUND' NEAR THE TURBO (THE LOCATION THE VACUUM LINES WERE REPLACED). I INFORMED THEM WHY THEY WOULD SEE THAT AND I WAS TOLD I WOULD NEED TO OPEN A CASE WITH MMNA TO APPEAL THEIR DECISION. THAT APPEAL WAS ALSO REJECTED AS THE DISTRICT REPRESENTATIVE OF THAT LOCATION WOULD NOT BELIEVE WHAT I HAD TO SAY. NOTHING HAS BEEN DONE TO THE CAR TO FIX THE PROBLEM, AND I AM LEFT WITH HAVING TO PAY OUT OF POCKET NOW TO DIAGNOSE AND FIX A PROBLEM WHICH SHOULD HAVE BEEN COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.

CLUTCH STARTED SLIPPING AFTER 12,000 MILES. NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.

ACCELERATOR "STUCK" & VEHICLE REMAINED IN IDLE, FORCING TO CRASH

THE VEHICLE STICKS IN THIRD GEAR. THE CONSUMER HAS LOCATED SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON THE INTERNET. *AK

THE TRANSMISSION IS SKIPPING. THE CAR WOULD DRIVE BY ITSELF WITHOUT ME ACCELERATING, THE RPMS WOULD BE AT 3-4 X1000 RPMS WHILE THE CAR IS STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT OR SOMETHING ELSE WORSE. *AK

WAS IN A 45 MPH REAR END COLLISION. AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY, BACK SEAT PASSENGER SEAT BELT AND TETHER CLIP FAILED. SONS CAR SEAT HIT THE BACK OF PASSENGER SEAT, LUCKILY I HAD ALREADY DROPPED IN OFF AT DAY CARE.*AK

THE DRIVER NOTICED THAT THE CLUTCH WILL NOT DISENGAGE. *AK

LOSS OF CLUTCH OPERATION WHILE AT RED STOP LIGHT, CLUTCH PEDAL DEPRESSED, CAR IN FIRST GEAR, FOOT SLIGHTLY ON BRAKE. CLUTCH PEDAL STARTED FEELING SOFT, THEN WITHOUT CLUTCH PEDAL MOVEMENT, CLUTCH ENGAGED. LATER THAT DAY, I FIND "OIL" UNDER MY CAR. TOOK TO DEALERSHIP AND REPORTED PROBLEM, AND WAS ADVISED THAT SLAVE CYLINDER WAS LEAKING.

CAR WAS DRIVING FINE. THEN STARTED ACTING FUNNY SHIFTING. KEPT GETTING WORSE SO TOOK IT TO THE DEALER. THE CAR HAD 37000 MILES ON IT AND THE WARRENTY RAN OUT AT 35000. ENDED UP BEING THE SLAVE CYLINDER. THE DEALER WANTED $1200. TOOK IT TO A LOCAL SHOP BUT STILL COST $38.10. *AK

MITSUBISHI LANCER 2003, DEFECTIVE TRANSMISSION AND BRAKES. *BF THE CONSUMER STATED THE TRANSMISSION SLIPPED AT EVERY SPEED AND NO ONE WOULD ADMIT THERE WAS A PROBLEM. THE BRAKES WOULD FADE AND VIBRATE MAKING IT DIFFICULT TO STOP. *JB

THE LOW BEAMS ON THE VEHICLE DO NOT LIGHT FAR ENOUGH AT NIGHT MAKING THE ABILITY TO SEE THE ROAD DIFFICULT. MANUFACTURER WILL BE CONTACTED BY CONSUMER. *NM

EVER SINCE I BOUGHT MY CAR I'VE BEEN HAVING TROUBLE WITH IT, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON, AT FIRST THE DEALERSHIP I BOUGHT IT FROM, ROCKLAND MITSUBISHI IN NY, SAID IT WAS JUST A SENSOR IN MY GAS TANK, BUT AFTER FIXING IT, IT KEPT COMING BACK ON. FINALLY THEY TOLD ME IT WAS MY FAULT, I HAD TO TURN MY CAR OFF COMPLETELY BEFORE PUMPING MY GAS, CLOSE MY TANK TIGHTLY, THEN START MY CAR BACK UP. THIS BACK AND FORTH CONTINUED UNTIL MY NORMAL WARRANTY RAN OUT. AT 70K MILES, MY TRANSMISSION STARTED SKIPPING, AND MY ENGINE BEGAN PUTTERING. FINALLY TOOK IT TO MITSUBISHI AGAIN, THEY SAID THEY TOOK CARE OF IT. AT 80K NOW, MY TRANSMISSION AS COMPLETELY DIED, I TOOK IT TO AAMCO AND THEY SAY I NEED A COMPLETELY NEW TRANSMISSION. *JB

UPON DRIVING MY 2003 LANCER, I'VE NOTICED THAT PERIODICALLY THE TRANSMISSION WILL SKIP AND THE CAR WILL DO A JERK. IT ALARMED ME BECAUSE AT THAT TIME THE CAR HAD ONLY ABOUT 11,000 MILES ON IT. I AM CONCERNED BECAUSE I HAVEN'T EVEN HAD THE CAR A YEAR, AND I THOUGHT I WAS GETTING A QUALITY VEHICLE. AS I LOOKED ON THE COMPLAINT BOARD I REALIZED IM NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH THIS ISSUE. IS MITSUBISHI AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM? AND IF SO, WHAT ARE THEY GOING TO DO ABOUT ALL OF THESE CARS? IF ANYONE IS HAVING THE SAME ISSUES PLEASE CONTACT DANIELLE@847)619-5879. *JB

MY P300 ERROR CODE COMES ON MY LANCER EVOLUTION RANDOMLY WHILE DRIVING AROUND. *NM

CHRONIC P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE IN 5TH GEAR UNDER PARTIAL THROTTLE. BUILD DATE OF VEHICLE IS FEB 03. *JB

1) I AM IN THE MILITARY DEPLOYED TO AFGHANISTAN... 1 MONTH BEFORE I DEPLOYED MY STOCK CLUTCH WAS SLIPPING. THIS IS NOT COVERED BY MITSUBISHI'S WARRANTY. I WAS READING ON MY FORUMS AND THERE WERE AT LEAST 2 TO 300 PEOPLE EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEM ALL AROUND 5000 MILES ON THE CAR REGARDLESS OF HOW THE CAR WAS DRIVEN. I PURCHASED A NEW CLUTCH, $1300 AND HAD THE DEALERSHIP INSTALL IT FOR $800 FIGURING THAT THEY WOULD WARRANTY THERE WORK. I DEPLOYED TO AFGHANISTAN, CAME BACK AND ABOUT 2 MONTHS OF DRIVING THE CAR MY CAR WAS MAKING A HI SQUEALING NOISE. THE PROBLEM WAS DIAGNOSED AS THE CLUTCH. ALTHOUGH THEY DID NO OTHER INSPECTION. I ORDERED A NEW CLUTCH HAD THEM INSTALL IT... SAME PROBLEM CONTINUED. SO I PAID ANOTHER 700 FOR A NEW CLUTCH FOR NO REASON. THEN THEY REDIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM AS THE REAR DIFFERENTIAL. THEY REPLACED THAT UNDER WARRANTY... PROBLEM WAS FIXED. I WAS BABYING THE CAR FOR A WEEK OR SO BECAUSE OF THE CLUTCH BREAK IN PERIOD IS SUGGESTED 1000 MILES. WHILE DOING 60 MPH ON THE HIGHWAY THE CAR NOISE CAME BACK JUST AS BAD AS BEFORE... CALLED MITSUBISHI AND THEY REFUSED REPAIR BY ORDER OF THE DISTRICT REP. 2. THE NOISE HAS PROGRESSIVELY GOTTEN WORSE AND HAS CAUSED MY CAR TO BE SLUGGISH NOW. I WOULD LIKE MY DRIVETRAIN TO HAVE A THOROUGH INSPECTION AND FIXED WHERE NECESSARY. I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO BE REIMBURSED FOR MY CLUTCH THAT I HAD TO BUY THAT WASN'T FAULTY TO BEGIN WITH. I ALSO THINK MITSUBISHI NEEDS TO ADHERE TO A WARRANTY ON THERE DRIVETRAIN. REGARDLESS IF YOU INSTALL AN AFTERMARKET CLUTCH IN YOUR CAR, THE DRIVETRAIN SHOULD BE COVERED. WHO IN THERE RIGHT MIND WOULD PAY FOR THE INSTALLATION OF A NEW STOCK CLUTCH AND FLY WHEEL IF ITS JUST GOING TO GO BAD AT THE SAME TIME YOU NEED YOUR OIL CHANGE. *NM

ENGINE LIGHT WENT OFF. P0300 CODE. I'VE WENT BACK TO THE DEALERS FOR MORE THAN 3 TIMES FOR THIS VERY SAME CODE. THEY'VE DONE A ECU REFLASH FOR ME AND THEY SWAPPED THE FUEL INJECTORS AS WELL. THE ENGINE LIGHT STILL WENT OFF VERY OFTEN WITH THE SAME P0300 CODE.*AK

P0300, RANDOM MISFIRE CODE. MITSUBISHI DEALERS CLAIM NO RECORD OF ISSUE AND NO FIX. CONTINUOUS AND REPEATABLE SITUATIONS.*AK

P0300, RANDOM MISFIRE CODE. MITSUBISHI DEALERS CLAIM NO RECORD OF ISSUE AND NO FIX. CONTINUOUS AND REPEATABLE SITUATIONS.*AK

I PURCHASED A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER LS, FRM THE MMSA CO. USED PARKING LOT, WITH ONLY A 100 MILES. CAR SEEMED TO RUN FINE, AND THEN IT STARTED TO RANDOMLY REVV AND THEM STALL. IT WASNT THAT BAD AT FIRST, BUT 06/04 IT BECAME A PROBLEM. ID STALL ABOUT 8-12 X A DAY (AVG.), ID TAKEN IT TO THE MITSU DEALERS WHO ALL SAID: THEY FIXED IT, COULDNT REPLICATE THE PROBLEM, OR THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG. WHILE ON THE FREEWAY, I STARTED TO BRAKE AND THEN REALIZED THAT I HAD NO POWER TO MY CAR- IT HAD STALLED IN MOTION. ALL LIGHTS WERE ON ON DASHBOARD AND THE LENGHT BETWEEN ME AND THE OTHER CAR WAS INEVITABLE. EVEN WHEN I HAD TAKEN IT TO A DEALER ONLY 4 DAYS BEFORE WHO SAID THEY FIXED IT. I ENDED UP TOTALLY MY CAR AND RECIEVED MANY INJURIES, AND MITSUBISHI DIDNT EVEN HELP ME. AT THE TIME OF MY CRASH I HAD JUST HIT 10000 MILES- I SHOULD NOT HAVE HAD A PROBLEM LIKE THIS WITH A BRAND NEW (BASICALLY) CAR.*AK

PREMATURE CLUTCH FAILURE. *AK

THE CONSUMER EXPERIENCED SUDDEN ACCELERATION . THE CONSUMER STATED THAT WHEN APPLYING THE BRAKES, THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED. THE CONSUMER CONTACTED THE MANUFACTURER, WHO ALSO WAS AT A LOSS FOR AN EXPLANATION AS TO WHY THIS DEFECT OCCURRED. *AK THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WOULD STICK, THE HEATER CONTROLS WOULD BIND UP WHEN TURNED ON AND AT TIMES THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WOULD GO TO THE FLOOR. *SC *JB

MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION CLUTCH FAILURE, I BOUGHT A 2003 LANCER EVOLUTION 8, I HAD IT FOR LESS THEN 5000 MILES BEFORE THE CLUTCH STARTED TO WEAR DOWN, I BROUGHT IT TO THE DEALER FOR WARRANTY WORK, THEY ACCEPTED THE WARRANTY WORK, ADDING THAT THEY SHOULD HAVE CHARGED ME 1500$ FOR THE REPAIR BECAUSE IT WAS ABUSE, NOW THE CAR IS AT 10,000 MILES DOING THE SAME THING, I USE THIS CAR TO GO TO AND FROM WORK ONLY, SINCE I HAVE TWO CARS, NOW THEY WONT EVEN TAKE MY CALLS, IF I MENTION LANCER EVOLUTION CLUTCH TO ANY MITSUBISHI WARRANTY DEPARTMENT, THEY CUT ME OFF IN THE MIDDLE OF A SENTENCE AND SAY"THE CLUTCH WEAR IS CAUSED BY ABUSE, SIR THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH THE CLUTCH IT IS YOUR FAULT!" THEN PROCEED TO HANG UP ON ME. IM TIRED OF THIS, AND IM NOT GOING TO PAY UP TO 1900 FOR A PROBLEM THEY CAUSED. MY CAR IS NOW IN OPERABLE! 3 DAYS AFTER THE CLUTCH STARTED SLIPPING! *JB

THE CLUTCH IN MY 2003 MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION FAILED HAVING 2995 MILES ON THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE HAD 600 MILES ON IT WHEN IT WAS PURCHASED. WE HAD IT REPAIRED AT THE DEALER AT A COST OF $950. THEY PAID FOR 20% OF THE REPAIRS BECAUSE OF THE MILEAGE ON THE VEHICLE PRIOR TO BEING SOLD.

I PURCHASED A NEW 2003 MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION VIII WITH ABOUT 300 MILES ON APRIL 28TH 2004. APPROX. 3 MONTHS LATER I NOTICED THAT THE CLUTCH STARTED TO SLIP IN SECOND GEAR. I THEN PROCEEDED TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALERSHIP WHERE I WAS TOLD THAT THE CLUTCH WAS BLOWN. AT THIS TIME I HAD APPOX. 3200 MILES ON MY NEW VEHICLE. I WAS THEN TOLD THAT I WOULD HAVE TO HAVE A REPLACEMENT CLUTCH PUT IN AND THAT FOR THEM TO EVEN LOOK AT THE CLUTCH IT WOULD COST $500 FOR THEM TO DROP THE PARTS NEEDED TO CONFIRM THIS PROBLEM, WHICH I THOUGHT WAS RIDICULOUS BECAUSE I WAS AT TRHE MERCY OF THE DEALERSHIP AND MITSUBISHI'S SUB-PAR REPLACEMENT PART. I HAD MY CAR TOWED TO A LOCAL PERFORMANCE SHOP WHERE THEY INSTRUCTED ME TO REPLACE THE CLUTCH WITH A MORE DURABLE AND WELL KNOW ACT RACE DICS. IN DOING THE REPAIR ALSO THE FLYWHEEL SEEMED TO BE DAMAGED SO THAT WAS REPLACED AS WELL. THE CAR WAS NOT EVER RACED OR EVER ABUSED OR DRIVEN TO ANY EXTENT OF WEARING PARTS EXCESSIVLY. THIS I FEEL IS KNOWN NEGLIGENCE OF SUB-PAR PARTS USED IN THIS VEHICLE.*AK

2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION WAS PURCHASED NEW 84 DAYS AGO WITH 1200 DEALER TEST DRIVE MILES. CLUTCH FAILED AT 4500 MILES. I HAVE CALLED MITSUBISHI AND THE DEALERSHIP, BOTH REFUSE TO COVER THE CLUTCH UNDER WARRANTY. THIS APPEARS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM AND MITSUBISHI CONSISTENTLY BLAMES THE CONSUMER. I HAVE NOT MISTREATED THE CAR. THE DEALER DROVE THE CAR HARDER THAN I EVER HAVE WHILE ON THE TEST DRIVE. *AK

MY CAR WAS/IS SLOW TO ENGAGE GEARS WHEN YOU DEPRESS THE THROTTLE. THE RPMS RISE APPROXIMATELY 1000, THEN SETTLE BACK DOWN AND THE GEAR SLOWLY ENGAGES. THE CLUTCH IS PRETTY MUCH GONE AND I HAVE LESS THAN 20,000 MILES ON THE VEHICLE. I DO NOT RACE, TRACK, OR ABUSE MY CAR. IT HAS BEEN PROPERLY MAINTAINED ACCORDING TO MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDATIONS. THE CLUTCH WILL BE COMPLETELY GONE VERY SOON AND I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO DRIVE A CAR THAT IS LESS THAN 2 YEARS OLD! THE MITSUBISHI DEALER TOLD ME IT WAS'T A WARRANTABLE ITEM, AS DID THE WARRANTY HOTLINE, THEREFORE I HAVE TO PAY FOR THE REPAIR. AN ESTIMATE FROM THEM IS APPROXIMATELY $1200. *AK

THERE IS A ROTTEN EGG SMELL, ALL THE TIME. I'VE TAKEN IT IN TO THE DEALER 3 PLUS TIMES, AND EACH TIME THEY TELL ME THERE IS NOTHING WRONG, AND THAT I AM USING CHEAP GAS. THEY SUGGUESTED CHANGING GAS STATIONS. IT STILL SMELLS NO MATTER WHERE I GET THE GAS.*AK

BRAKES VIBRATE WHEN APPLIED. I HAVE RETURNED MY '03 DIAMONTE FOUR TIMES FOR REPAIRS AND EACH TIME THEY STATE THAT THE ROTORS WERE WARPED AND EITHER REPLACED OR MACHINED THEM. BRAKES ARE NOW VIBRATING AGAIN AND WILL NEED TO BE RETURNED FOR REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT. WIND NOISE COMING FORM THE DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW. WINDOW ADJUSTMENTS WERE MADE THREE TIMES STILL HAVING NOISE PROBLEMS. RETURNED THREE TIMES TO HAVE LUMBAR SUPPORT SWITCH REPLACED. *AK

EAGLE LS KEEPS LOSING TIRE PRESSURE (ABOUT 10PSI) EVERY 5-7 DAYS. HAVE WENT TO THE MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP 4 TIMES NOW FOR THE PROBLEM AND THEY SAID TO GO SEE A GOODYEAR SERVICE CENTER. GOODYEAR SAYS THE TIRE JUST NEEDS AIR AND IT'S OK. THIS CANNOT BE SAFE IF THE TIRE IS CONTINUALLY LOSING AIR PRESSURE IN SUCH A SHORT TIME FRAME. *JB

AIRBAGS DIDN'T DEPLOY IN MY 2003 GALANT ES. I HIT A STOPPED VEHICLE, WHILE MOVING APPROXIMATELY 25 MPH, HEAD-ON INTO THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE OTHER CAR. *JB

WHEN DRIVING MY VEHICLE THE TRANSMISSION DOES NOT SHIFT GEARS PROPERLY. NORMAL OPERATION OF THE VEHICLE LEADS TO SLIPPING TRANSITIONS FROM GEAR TO GEAR MAKING IT DIFFICULT TO MAINTAIN/REACH/SUSTAIN SPEED. THIS OCCURS IN BOTH HIGHWAY AND CITY ENVIRONMENTS. I HAVE HAD THE CAR SERVICED ACCORDING TO MANUFACTURER'S RECOMMENDATIONS OF EVERY 3000 MILES. I HAVE ABOUT 40000 MILES ON THE VEHICLE AT THIS POINT. IT STARTED DOING THIS AT ABOUT 6000 MILES. I HAVE HAD THE VEHICLE CHECKED MULTIPLE TIMES. WHEN TAKEN TO THE DEALERSHIP THEY INFORMED ME NOTHING WAS WRONG. I HAVE CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION FLUID AS WELL AS ALL FILTERS. I WAS TOLD THIS IS 'NORMAL' FOR THE CAR. I DO NOT THINK HOWEVER THAT THIS IS A TYPICAL BEHAVIOR FOR NEW VEHICLES.*AK

I HAVE A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION. AT 19,000 MILES THE CAR DEVELOPED A VERY LOUD SOUND COMING FROM THE FRONT OF THE CAR AT SPEEDS ABOVE 30MPH. I WORK AT A AUTO REPAIR SHOP AND CONCLUDED THAT THE SOUND IS COMING FROM THE TRANSFER ASE/FRONT DIFFERENTIAL. MORE THAN LIKELY FROM RING GEAR BEING IMPROPERLY SHIMMED FROM THE FACTORY. IF THE PROBLEM IS NOT RESOLVED WITH THE TRANSFERCASE/FRONT DIFFERENTIAL, WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURS WITH OTHER LANCER EVOLUTION OWNERS THERE IS A CHANCE THAT THE TRANSFERCASE/DIFFERENTIAL COULD LOCK UP CAUSING A ACCIDENT OR CAUSE MORE DAMAGE TO OTHER PARTS OF THE DRIVETRAIN.*AK

LANCER OZ RALLY EDITION: WITHIN 6 MONTHS OF OWNERSHIP, NOTICED PROBLEMS WITH CRUISE CONTROL, OCCURING AT ANY SPEED IN WHICH CRUISE CONTROL FUNCTION IS USED: WHEN VEHICLE WAS IN CRUISE CONTROL AND ACCELERATING AT SET SPEED, CAR WOULD ACCELERATE EXCESSIVELY FOR VERY MINIMAL INCLINES. WHEN USING THE COAST FUNCTION, VEHICLE WOULD SLOW DOWN UNTIL YOU LET OFF THE SWITCH, AND THEN SPEED WOULD RAPIDLY INCREASE BEYOND PREVIOUS POSITION, BEFORE FINALLY SETTLING BACK TO THE REDUCED SPEED CHOSEN. WHEN USING THE ACCELERATE OPTION, VEHICLE WOULD SPEED UP WHEN SWITCH USED AND WOULD CONTINUE FAST ACCELERATION AFTER RELEASE OF SWITCH. WOULD INCREASE ABOUT 2-3 MILES PER HOUR PAST RELEASE OF THE SWITCH AND THEN FINALLY SETTLE BACK TO THE FASTER SPEED CHOSEN. NOTIFIED LOCAL DEALERSHIP OF THIS PROBLEM. THEY TOLD ME THEY TEST DROVE THE CAR AND COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM, THEREFORE, IT WAS NOT AN ISSUE. VEHICLE CONTINUES TO DO THIS AND WHEN TRYING TO COAST WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL I HAVE HAD TO APPLY BREAKS RAPIDLY TO AVOID CAR FROM SPEEDING TO FASTLY, POSSIBLY HITTING SLOW MOVING VEHICLES INFRONT OF ME. ALSO, LOCAL DEALERSHIP DID NOT PROVIDE ME WITH A RECIEPT SHOWING THAT THE VEHICLE WAS IN FOR SAID PROBLEM, OR THAT ANY THING HAD BEEN DONE TO CHECK FOR IT....I ONLY HAD THE WORD OF THE SERVICE WRITER.

I TOOK THE CAR IN FOR REGULAR SERVICE. I LET THEM KNOW IT WAS MAKING AN ODD RATTLE TYPE NOISE. I WAS TOLD IT WAS NOTHING TO BE CONCERNED WITH. A COUPLE OF WEEKS LATER THE ENGINE FAILED. IT WAS IN THE SHOP FOR TWO WEEKS. THE CAR HAD LESS THAN 5000 MILES ON IT AT THE TIME. THEY REBUILT THE ENGINE. *AK

CLUTCH SLIPPING AT LESS THAN 10,000 MILES. CAR IS NOT RACED NOR ABUSED.*AK

BOUGHT MY 2003 EVO ON AUGUST 18TH 2004...ON AUGUST 20TH THE CLUTCH WENT OUT WITH ONLY 14K MILES, I HAD JUST BROKE 150 MILES IN THE 2 DAYS....FOUND OUT THE CLUTCH WASNT WARRANTIED BUT THE DEALER I BOUGHT IT OFF OF FELT BAD AND AGREED TO PAY FOR IT TO GET FIXED...I DIDNT LOSE ANYTHING OUT OF THE DEAL BUT READIN SOME OF THESE COMPLAINTS AND SEEIN MITSU SAYS WE ALL DRIVE OUR CARS TOO HARD, THATS A LOT OF PPL!! BUT SO WHAT IF WE DO, THE CAR IS MADE TO DRIVE FAST, IT SHOULD HAVE THE CLUTCH IN IT TO BE ABLE TO TAKE THE POWER AND HANDLE THE AWD.....IF THIS ONE GOES OUT, IM PUTTIN IN A DOUBLE DISK SO I WONT HAVE TO WORRY AGAIN...MITSU'S WARRANTY POLICY ON AFTERMARKET PARTS SUCKS TOO. *AK

WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH CONSUMER'S VEHICLE WAS INVOLVED IN A REAR END COLLISION, UPON IMPACT, FRONT AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO DEALERSHIP. *AK

WHILE DRIVING AT 60 MPH VEHICLE PULLED TO THE RIGHT. VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHO INSPECTED IT SEVERAL TIMES BUT COULD NOT REPRODUCE OR CORRECT THE PROBLEM. *AK *NM

MOTOR HAS BLOWN TWICE 5 DAYS AFTER INTIAL BUY OF VEHICLE THEN AGAIN 6000 MILES LATER, MANUFACTER SAYS CUSTOMER NEGLECT, HAS NOT YET BEEN REPAIRED. *AK

MY MANUAL TRANSMISSION IN MY LANCER EVOLUTION STARTED TO FEEL ROUGH AROUND 350 MILES I THOUGHT IN WAS NORMAL SINCE IT WAS A NEW CAR. BUT AROUND 1700 MILES THE PROBLEM GOT WORSE I TOOK IT TO THE ATTENTION OF THE DEALER WHERE I PURCHASED IT FORM BUT THE MECHANIC SAID IT WAS FINE, SO I TOOK IT HOME THE WAY IT WAS. I NOW HAVE 5000 MILES AND MY CLUTCH IS ALL WORN OUT AND MY DEALER REFUSES TO FIX THE PROBLEM EVEN THOUGH I HAVE NEVER ABUSED OF THE CAR I AM STILL TRYING TO BREAK IT IN. SO I THINK IT DOES NOT MAKE SINCE THAT I WOULD HAVE TO CHANGE MY CLUTCH 20 TIMES BEFORE MY 100,000 MILES. SO I DON'T THINK THE CLUTCH WENT OUT UNDER NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR THERE HAS TO BE SOMETHING WRONG WITH THIS CAR THERE HAVE BEEN TO MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE SAME PROBLEM. *JB

MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION 8. *AK

JUST WITH TALKING TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR MY 2003 MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION THEY ARE TELLING ME MISTUBISHI IS DOING NOTHING ABOUT THE CLUTCH FAILURE PROBLEM . THEY ARE STATING THAT IT'S ALL OF US DRIVERS FAULTS. AND THERE APPEARS TO BE LOTS OF COMPLAINTS.*AK CLUTCH IS SLIPPING. NO FAILURE YET. NOTHING HAS BEEN DONE YET. WAITING TO HEAR MORE.

CLUTCH FAILURE AFTER 2778 MILES OF DRIVING A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION VIII. PURCHASED NEW VEHICLE (USED BROKER JIM ESTRADA AUTOBROKER 602-683-2120) FROM MARK MITSUBISHI WITH 1586 MILES. AFTER DRIVING 1192 ADDTIONAL MILES THE CLUTCH STARTED SLIPPING. RETURNED CAR TO MARK MITSUBISHI TO FIND THAT CLUTCH PROBLEM IS NOT COVERED BY AUTO WARRANTY. AFTER RESEARCHING NHTSA WEBSITE I FOUND 13 SIMILAR FAILURES OF CLUTCH PROBLEMS WITH SAME RESULT WITH DEALERS. THERE ARE NOW 30 REPORTED INCIDENTS. I TRIED TO HAVE PROBLEM REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY BUT WAS TOLD IT WAS MY PROBLEM. WHILE NEGOTIATING REPAIR MY DAUGHTER WAS TOLD BY SALESPERSON HE KNEW OF CLUTCH PROBLEMS WITH THIS MODEL CAR. I WAS ALSO TOLD BY THIS SAME SALESPERSON THAT THEY HAD PROBLEMS. HIS REPLY WHEN ASKED WHY BUYER IS NOT INFORMED WAS THAT I SHOULD DO MY HOMEWORK. I DO NOT THINK A NEW CAR SHOULD HAVE A PROBLEM AT 2778 MILES OF DRIVING. MITSUBISHI HAD TROUBLES WITH THEIR TRUCK CLUTCHES SENDING ONE OF THEIR EXCUTIVES TO JAIL IN JAPAN. I HAD TO PAY $889.89 TO HAVE CLUTCH REPLACED. *LA

DURING A 30 MPH FRONTAL COLLISION FRONT AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. DEALERSHIP WAS NOTIFIED, BUT DID NOT RESOLVE THE PROBLEM. THE TWO OCCUPANT SUFFERED FROM CHEST, BACK AND SHOULDER INJURIES. *NM

THE CLUTCH ON MY 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION VIII WENT OUT AFTER ONLY 3000 MILES. MITSUBISHI REFUSED TO REPLACE IT UNDER WARRANTY SAYING IT WAS DUE TO CUSTOMER ABUSE. WHEN ASKED TO CITE A REFERENCE TO SUGGEST CUSTOMER ABUSE THEY SIMPLY SAID THAT THE CLUTCH HAD GONE OUT. AFTER TALKING TO MANY PEOPLE ON INTERNET FORUMS ABOUT THEIR EVOLUTIONS IT WOULD APPEAR THIS IS AN EXTREMELY COMMON PROBLEM, AND MITSUBISHI HAS MADE EVERY PERSON PAY OUT OF POCKET FOR THE REPAIRS. *LA

I HAD 12000 MILES ON MY CAR IT IS 7 MONTHS OLD. I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER AND IV BEEN DRIVING MANUAL CARS FOR OVER 8 YEARS. NEVER HAD ANY TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS BE FOR THEY HAD TO REPLACE SOME SYNCROS BECAUSE IT WOULD GRIND BETWEEN FOURTH AND FITH GEARS AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. AND THEY ALSO MADE A COMMENT ON HOW WORN MY CLUTCH IS AND THAT MY FLY WHEEL IS SCORED. EVERY NOW AND THEN WHEN I START OFF I SMELL MY CLUTCH BURNING AND SMOKE COMES OUT OF MY EXHAUST AND THEY SAY ITS FROM ABUSE WHEN ITS NOT. *LA

PROBLEMS WITH 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER.*MR *JB

I PURCHASED A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION 8 FROM ANTWERPEN MITSUBISHI IN RANDALLSTOWN,MD AND I COULD NOT HAVE ASKED FO A BETTER BUYING EXPIERENCE,THAT IS UNTILL MY CLUTCH STARTED TO SLIP....I BOUGHT IT ONLY 3 MONTHS AGO W/183 MILES ON IT(EVEN THOUGH THE CONTRACT SAID IT HAD 83 MILES ON IT)AND AT ABOUT 2200 MILES MY CLUTCH STARTED TO SLIP SO I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP .I FOUGHT WITH THE SERVICE MANAGER FOR DAYS AND THEY JUST DENIED THE CLAIM STATEING THAT I WOULD HAVE TO PAY 350.00 TO HAVE THE CLUTCH INSPECTED TO EVEN SEE IF IT COULD BE WARRENTED BUT ACCORDING TO THE SERVICE MANAGER IT WAS MORE THEN LIKELY DUE TO ABUSE AND IT WOULD NOT BE COVERD I AM NOT GOING TO SIT HERE AND LET MITSUBISHI STEAL FROM US I BELIEVE THEY PUT A CHEAP CLUTCH IN THE CAR TO LOWER THE COST OF PRODUCTION TO KEEP THE PRICE OF THE CAR DOWN SOMETHING MUST BE DONE ABOUT THIS SO NOW I AM FORCED TO PAY OVER $1000.00 TO HAVE A REAL CLUTCH PUT IN SO IF YOU OTHER EVO OWNERS OUT THERE FEEL LIKE I DO CONTACT A LAWYER LIKE I AM GOING TO TO ASAP!!!*AK

THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER BECAUSE THE CONSUMER THOUGHT THERE WAS A TRANSMISSION PROBLEM. UPON FURTHER EXAMINATION THE DEALER FOUND THAT THE CLUTCH NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. *JB

THE CLUTCH WENT OUT ON MY 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION THAT I BOUGHT NEW AND HAS 3200 MILES ON IT. *JB

PREMATURE CLUTCH WEAR ON NEW VEHICLE. EXPERIENCING CLUTCH SLIPPAGE AT 3000 MILES. THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN NOTED BY MANY OTHER DRIVERS OF THE SAME VEHICLE. THE MANUFACTURER (MITSUBISHI) HAS NOT EQUIPPED THE VEHICLE WITH A STRONG ENOUGH CLUTCH. *NM

ECU REGISTERS P0300 (MULTIPLE CYLINDER MISFIRE) OBDII ERROR CODE. ERROR CODE IS THROWN, SES LIGHT COMES ON, AND CAR STUMBLES UNTIL THROTTLE IS RELEASED. THIS TYPICALLY OCCURS AT LIGHT THROTTLE OR CRUISING (STEADY) THROTTLE. IT CAN OCCUR UNDER LOAD (ACCELERATION) BUT NEVER OCCURS ON DECELERATION. KNOWN FACETS OF THIS PROBLEM THUS FAR ARE: 1) MITSUBISHI IS AWARE OF 2 ISSUES: STICKY (DIRTY) INJECTORS AND A TRANSMISSION HARMONIC RESONANCE, WHICH THROWS THE KNOCK SENSOR 2) THE CAR IS UNDRIVEABLE WHEN THIS OCCURS UNTIL THE THROTTLE IS RELEASED. 3) MY VEHICLE IN PARTICULAR IS ALMOST 100% UNDRIVEABLE ON THE HIGHWAY DUE TO THIS PROBLEM RECURRING EVERY 10-15 SECONDS DURING ANY SORT OF HIGHWAY DRIVING PERIOD. 4) IT _IS_ A SAFETY ISSUE AS I HAVE HAD THIS OCCUR UNDER LIGHT ACCELERATION ATTEMPTING TO MERGE INTO TRAFFIC, ONLY TO BE MET WITH WHAT FEELS LIKE A WALL WHEN THE ERROR CODE IS THROWN AND THE ECU RETARDS THE TIMING BECAUSE IT IS DETECTING KNOCK (WHICH IS NOT ACTUALLY OCCURRING). 5) MITSUBISHI (MMNA) IS APPARENTLY AWARE OF AN ECU REFLASH FIX FOR THIS PROBLEM (THE HARMONIC RESONANCE ISSUE, NOT THE INJECTOR ISSUE). THEY HAVE CLAIMED THAT THE FLASH WILL BE OUT "WITHIN 3-6 WEEKS" SINCE NOVEMBER 2003, AND IT IS STILL NOT OUT NOR AVAILABLE. I HAVE BEEN TOLD IT IS HELD UP IN EPA CERTIFICATION. THIS PROBLEM HAS OCCURRED FOR ME LITERALLY HUNDREDS OF TIMES, AND NO DEALERSHIP HAS BEEN ABLE TO FIX IT BECAUSE MITSUBISHI WILL NOT AUTHORIZE ANY WARRANTY WORK ON MY VEHICLE FOR THIS PROBLEM, CITING THAT "A FIX IS ALREADY ON THE WAY, WAIT FOR IT." *NM

LOUD NOISES WHEN DECELARATING, VERY CHATTERY WHEN DRIVING. *AK

YOKOHAMA , AVID, P235/45R17, DOT EHX8BEM0803. CONSUMER STATED THE TIRES WORE OUT JUST ON REGULAR WEAR AND TEAR . THE TIRES WERE 9 MONTHS OLD WITH LESS THAN 10,000 MILES. *AK

ON JUNE 1ST THE CLUTCH FAILED COMPLETELY IT WAS COMPOSED OF THE CLUTCH SLIPPING AND THEN EXPLODING. THIS CAR WAS NOT ABUSED AND FROM THE 3RD DAY I BOUGHT THE CAR THE CLUTCH WAS SLIPPING. I TRIED TO GET THE FACTORY TO DO SOMTHING ABOUT IT THEN BUT HAD NO LUCK. I WAS TOLD I WAS GOING TO HAVE TO PAY FOR IT OUT OF POCKET. I ENDED UP PAYING FOR THE CLUTCH REPLACEMENT OUT OF POCKET ANYWAY NOW THEY ARE THREATENING TO VOID MY WARRANTY BECAUSE I DIDNT REPLACE IT WITH THEIR STOCK REPLACEMENT! AFTER THE CLUTCH REPLACEMENT THE TRANSFER CASE AND TRANSMISSION IS GIVING ME TROUBLES AFTER ONLY 700 MILES. THE DEALER THAT I HAD THE CLUTCH REPAIR DONE THEN REFERED ME TO ANOTHER DEALER TO HAVE THE CAR FIXED. IT HAS DEVELOPED A HIGH PITCHED WHINE THAT STARTS ABOUT 40MPH IT SOUNDS LIKE A WWII BOMB SHELTER WARNING SIREN. THIS HAS BEEN A MISERABLE EXPERIENCE!*AK

1. THIS CAR IS COMPLETELY STOCK AND DRIVEN BY AN ADULT WHO DOES NOT RACE OR ABUSE ANY OF THE CARS MECHANICAL SYSTEMS. 2. THE ISSUE I HAVE IS WITH A OBD-II 'ENGINE WARNING' CODE CELL 0300 I REPEATEDLY GET WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY. I EXPERIENCE THIS WARNING UP TO 5 TIMES A DAY DURING MY 20 MILE FREEWAY COMMUTE. THE CEL WARNING COMES ON MOST OFTEN DURING VERY LIGHT ACCELERATION INPUTS (5-15% THROTTLE) WHILE ATTEMPTING TO MAINTAIN SPEED WITH THE OTHER TRAFFIC ON THE ROAD. WHILE GENTLY TOUCHING THE THROTTLE, THERE IS A SUDDEN AND VIOLENT ENGINE MISFIRING THAT SLOWS THE CAR DOWN CONSIDERABLY. THIS MAKES ME A SAFETY HAZARD ON THE STREETS BECAUSE THE CAR WILL NOT ACCELERATE AGAIN UNTIL I LET OFF THE THROTTLE COMPLETELY THEN JAB IT VIOLENTLY (50% OR MORE THROTTLE). THIS ERROR REPEATS EACH TIME I USE GENTLE THROTTLE INPUTS ON THE FREEWAY. AS A RESULT, I DRIVE AROUND WITH MY "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT LIT ALMOST 100% OF THE TIME. IN THE STATE OF CA, IF YOUR ENGINE LIGHT IS ON WHEN YOU GO FOR YOUR ANNUAL SMOG/EMISSIONS TEST, YOU ARE INSTANTLY FAILED! MY CAR WOULD FAIL AN EMISSIONS TEST IN THIS STATE BECAUSE THE EQUIPMENT IS NOT OPERATING PROPERLY. 3. I APPROACHED THE DEALER WITH THIS ISSUE. THEY REPLACED THE COIL PACKS AND THE SPARK PLUGS TO SEE IF THAT WOULD FIX THINGS. AND WHILE THEY WERE VERY CORDIAL ABOUT FINDING THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM, AND FIXING IT UNDER WARRANTY, THEY WERE NOT ABLE TO FIX MY CAR. THEY ALSO DON'T KNOW WHAT IS CAUSING THE ECU TO THROW THIS ERROR CODE. SO I AM CURRENTLY DRIVING A 1 YEAR OLD CAR THAT IS STILL SHUDDERING VIOLENTLY AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS, CREATING A ROLLING ROADBLOCK WHEN SHUDDERING, AND IS AN INSTANT FAIL WHEN IT COMES TIME TO DO A SMOG CHECK. THIS PROBLEM OBVIOUSLY EFFECTS THE SAFETY OF MY VEHICLE AND THE RESALE VALUE OF MY VEHICLE AND NEEDS TO ADDRESSED RIGHT AWAY.*AK

POWERTRAIN: CLUTCH ASSEMBLY. *AK

CLUTCH FAILURE 2 TIMES BEFORE 6000 MILES. 2003 LANCER EVOLUTION.*AK

CLUTCH SLIPPED. *AK

I HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH THE CLUTCH ON THIS VEHICLE. I HAVE ONLY 7,000 MILES ON THE VEHICLE. 5TH GEAR SYNCHROS WENT BAD. THIS IS NOT ACCEPTABLE. THE DEALERSHIP SPECIFICALLY ADVISED THEY HAVE HAD NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS, AND IT SHOULD BE RECOGNIZED. *AK

I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE BRAND NEW WITH 26 MILES. 6 MONTHS LATER AND 17000 MILES THE CLUTCH SLIPPING AND NOT INGAUGING. IT WAS SO BAD THAT THE CAR WOULD NOT EVEN MOVE. THE RPM WOULD JUST RAISE, EVEN ALL THE WAY UP TO 6500 IN FIRST GEAR WITH THE CAR NOT RESPONDING. THE MITSUBISHI DEALER SHIP HERE IN TOWN WOULD NOT EVEN WANT TO COVER IT OR TOUCH IT.*AK

UNDER THE FIRST FEW WEEKS OF OWNERSHIP OF MY 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION, MY CLUTCH BEGAN TO SLIP. I IMMEDIATELY NOTIFIED MY DEALER AND WENT IN TO HAVE IT INSPECTED. I SPOKE DIRECTLY WITH THE DISTRICT MANAGER BUT BEFORE ANY QUESTIONS HE ASSUMED I HAD ABUSED THE VEHICLE AND SAID THEY WOULD ONLY CHECK FOR PROBLEMS IF I PAID TO THE COST OF A TEARDOWN BEFORE ANYTHING. I EXPLAINED THAT I WAS STILL IN THE "BREAK-IN" PERIOD AND DRIVING VERY CAREFULLY. HE DID NOT CARE AND SAID MANY PEOPLE ABUSE THIS CAR, SO HE STILL WOULD NOT TRY TO UNDERSTAND. FURTHERMORE, WHILE BEING AT THE DEALER FOR OTHER PROBLEMS, SOMEONE HAD TAKEN MY CAR FOR 20 MILES WITHOUT ANY EXPLAINATION. I LET HIM KNOW ABOUT THIS AND HE STILL INSISTED THAT I WAS ABUSING THE CLUTCH AND WOULD ONLY ALLOW AN INSPECTION IF I PAID THE LABOR FOR A TEARDOWN FIRST. BASICALLY, THE DISTRICT MANAGER OF MITSUBISHI WAS UNREASONABLE AND WOULD NOT LISTEN TO MY CONCERNS. *AK

SLIPPING CLUTCH WITH ONLY 3500 MILES. *AK

CLUTCH DEFECTIVE, WENT OUT AT 9000 MILES, HAD TO REPLACE WITH MY OWN MONEY AS DEALERSHIP SAID THAT THEY WILL NOT HONOR WARRENTY ON MY CAR, BUT PROVIDED NO PROOF OR REASON WHY.*AK

CLUTCH FAILURE. *AK

I'VE HAD A THROW OUT BEARING METAL TO METAL RUBBING NOISE FROM THE DAY I BOUGHT MY 2003 MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION VIII. I WENT BACK TO THE DEALER TO ASK IF I SHOULD BE CONCERNED. I WAS STRAIGHTFORWARD TOLD NOT TO WORRY UNLESS THE NOISE GETS WORSE. SINCE THEN MY CLUTCH HAS BEGUN TO CHATTER IN COLD WEATHER VIOLENTLY, AND OCCATIONALLY IN WARM OR HOT WEATHER. MY PEDAL THROW HAS BEEN VERY FAR FROM THE FLOOR FROM DAY ONE AND I JUST ASSUMED THIS WAS THE NATURE OF THE CAR. I LATER FOUND FROM A FORMER EMPLOYEE OF THE EXACT SAME DEALERSHIP THAT UPON RECEIVING THE VERY FIRST SHIPMENT OF EVOLUTIONS, BOTH VEHICLES RECEIVED WERE TAKEN OUT AND DRIVEN BY ALL THE MANAGMENT AND EMPLOYEES AT THE DEALERSHIP AND VIOLENTLY ABUSED AND PRESSED FURTHER THEN THEY WERE MENT TO BE USED FOR. I HAVE TWO SEPARATE PEOPLE WITH MATCHING STORIES WHO WORKED AT THE SAME DEALERSHIP TELL ME THAT MY CAR WAS ONE OF THE TWO VEHICLES WHICH THEY TOOK OUT FOR A JOY RIDE. SO MY CLUTCH PROBLEM IS EITHER A: A DEFECTIVE DESIGN, OR B: ABUSE FRO MTHE DEALERSHIP. *AK

MY CLUTCH JUST GOES OUT AT 2K AND MITSUBISHI DOESN'T WANT TO REPLACE IT BECAUSE THEY SAY ITS BURN. *AK

CLUTCH FAILED UNDER ACCELERATION WHILE MERGING ON FREEWAY. CAR HAS 6300 MILES, 3 MONTHS OLD. DEALER QUOTED ALMOST $1500 FOR REPLACEMENT NOT UNDER WARRANTY. *AK

I HAVE OWNED THE CAR FOR 4 MONTHS AND HAVE ABOUT 6500 MILES ON THE ODOMOTER. THE CLUTCH HAS STARTED SLIPPING WHEN THE TURBO KICKS IN. THE PROBLEM IS GETTING PROGRESSIVELY WORSE. I HAVE NOTIFIED MY LOCAL DEALER WHO ACKNOLOGES THE CAR NEEDS A CLUTCH, BUT CLAIMS THIS IS A WEAR ITEM AND ISN'T COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. THEY ALSO IMPLIED DRIVER ABUSE. THIS CAR IS MY DAILY DRIVER, I DO NOT RACE IT OR DRIVE IT ABOVE ITS INTENDED USE. I HAVE EVEN OFFERED TO SUPPLY A QUALITY AFTERMARKET CLUTCH AND HAVE THE DEALER SIMPLY PROVIDE THE LABOR, THEY WERE NOT AGREEABLE TO THIS AT THIS POINT.*AK

WHEN DRIVING MY VEHICLE THE TRANSMISSION DOES NOT SHIFT GEARS PROPERLY. NORMAL OPERATION OF THE VEHICLE LEADS TO JERKY TRANSITIONS FROM GEAR TO GEAR AND RESULTS IN THE INABILITY TO GAUGE THE AMOUNT OF PRESSURE NEED TO MAINTAIN/REACH/SUSTAIN SPEED. THIS OCCURS IN BOTH HIGHWAY AND CITY ENVIRONMENTS. I HAVE HAD THE CAR SERVICED ACCORDING TO MFG'R RECOMMENDATIONS OF EVERY 3000 MILES. I HAVE ABOUT 35000 MILES ON THE VEHICLE AT THIS POINT. IT STARTED DOING THIS AT ABOUT 4000 MILES. I HAVE HAD THE VEHICLE CHECKED MULTIPLE TIMES. WHEN TAKEN TO THE DEALERSHIP THEY INFORMED ME NOTHING WAS WRONG. I HAVE CHANGED THE TRANS. FLUID AS WELL AS ALL FILTERS. I WAS TOLD THIS IS 'NORMAL' FOR THE CAR. I DO NOT THINK HOWEVER THAT THIS IS A TYPICAL BEHAVIOR FOR NEW VEHICLES. I HAVE ALSO HAD A PROBLEM FOR THE PAST 1500 OR SO MILES WITH MY BREAKS SQUEAKING. WHEN I TRY TO STOP OR PULL OUT FROM A PARKING SPACE THEY HAVE A SQUEALING SOUND. I HAVE ALSO HAD THIS EVALUATED AT THE MITSUBISHI REPAIR SHOP AND WAS INFORMED THEY ARE FINE.*AK

AFTER PURCHASING NEW 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVO8 WITH 1500 DEALER MILES, AN ADDITIONAL 1000 MILES WAS DRIVEN WHEN CLTUCH PROBLEM BEGAN. VERY SERIOUS CLUTCH SLIPPAGE. RETURNED VEHICLE TO DEALER ONLY TO BE TOLD NOT UNDER WARRANTY. I HAVE SEARCHED THE INTERNET TO FIND 12 SIMILAR COMPLAINTS WITH THE NHTSA ON FILE. I AM CURRENTLY IN NEGOTIATION WITH THE DEALERSHIP MANAGER WITH THIS PROBLEM. I AM THINKING IF THEY REPLACE THIS CLUTCH WITH A FACTORY KIT, THAT THIS WILL NOT HAPPEN AGAIN. *AK

DRIVER OF 2003 LANCER WAS THROWN FROM VEHICLE DUE TO FAILURE OF SEAT BELT TO RESTRAIN, CAUSING TWO SEVERE SKULL FRACURES AND BRAIN, EAR, NOSE, THROAT TRAUMA.*AK

MY MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION 8 CLUTCH STOPPED WORKING AT APPROX. 12,000 MILES. I TOOK MY CAR TO MY DEALER AND I WAS DENIED A WARRANTY CLAIM. I NEVER DONE IT HARD OR EVEN TOOK IT TO A RACE TRACK. *AK

CLUTCH FAILURE AT RIGHT AROUND 10,000 MILES.*AK

PREMATURE CLUTCH WEAR AND FAILURE. ON MY VEHICLE, A MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION VIII, THE CLUTCH STARTED SLIPPING AT 5700 MILES FROM PURCHASE. THE CLUTCH FAILURE OCCURED FROM NORMAL USAGE, AND THIS BEHAVIOR HAS BEEN EXHIBITED IN OTHER EVOLUTIONS AS WELL. THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE FROM A SAFETY STANDPOINT AS IT CAN LEAD TO THE VEHICLE BECOMING INOPERABLE.*AK

FAILURE OF CLUTCH AT AROUND 6,000 MILES ON A 03' MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION. MITSUNISHI CLAIMS UNDER WARRANTY THAT IT IS COVERED UP TO 12,000 MILES OR 12 MONTHS. THEY WOULDN'T EVEN LOOK AT THE CLUTCH OR CHECK TO SEE IF IT WAS UNDER WARRANTY. I COMMUNICATED WITH THE HEAD OF SERVICE SHOP AND HE COMMUNICATED THAT MITSUBISHI MOTORS HAD STATED THEY WOULD NOT COVER PROBLEM. AFTER NUMEROUS PHONE CALLS I DIDN'T RECIEVE ANY HELP AND WAS FORCED TO REPLACE BAD PART MYSELF FOR OVER $2000 W/LABOR. I HAVE SEEN THIS IN NUMEROUS EVOLUTIONS WITH THEM EVEN GOING OUT UNDER 1000 MILES. OUT OF 6 FRIENDS THAT OWN THE SAME CAR 5 HAVE HAD TO REPLACE CLUTCH AND ALL UNDER 7000 MILES.*AK

I'VE OWNED MY 03 MITSU EVOLUTION VIII FOR 1 YEAR AND I HAVE PUT 16,700 MILES ON THE CAR. THE CLUTCH IS SLIPPING AND IT'S NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. THIS IS RIDICULOUS SINCE IT WILL REQUIRE 8 HOURS OF LABOR AND A BETTER CLUTCH JUST TO GET IT WHERE IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN IN THE FIRST PLACE. I HAVE DONE EVERYTHING WITH IN REASON TO BABY THIS THING. I JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY IT WASN'T COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.*AK

CLUTCH STARTED SLIPPING AFTER 4800 MILES, HAD MY CLUTCH REPLACED, $1125. *AK

THE CLUTCH IS SHUTTERING / CHATTERING WHEN PULLING FROM A STOP IN 1ST AND MORE SO IN REVERSE. THIS STARTED HAPPENING MILDLY WHEN NEW AND IS NOW MUCH WORSE AT 7000 MILES. IN REVERSE THE SHAKING AND SHUTTERING IS OFTEN SO BAD I MUST PUSH THE CLUTCH BACK IN AND START OVER. THIS HAPPENS ON A DAILY BASIS. *LA

I HAVE A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION BOUGHT IT BRAND NEW AND MY CLUTCH HAD TO BE REPLACED AT 3000 MILES COSTING NEARLY 1500 DOLLARS AND WOULD NOT BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY BY MITSUBISHI. IT WAS REPLACED WITH A AFTERMARKET CLUTCH I HAVE HAD NO PROBLEM WITH AS OF YET AND IT HAS 17000 MILES ON IT. *LA

I HAD BOUGHT MY CAR BRAND NEW ON JANUARY 10TH, 2004 WITH ABOUT 300 MILES ON THE CAR ALREADY FROM THE DAY I BOUGHT IT FROM FRED BEANS MITSUBISHI. SINCE THEN I HAVE NOT BEEN HARD ON MY CAR AT ALL. BUT ABOUT 2,500 MILES ON THE CAR, MY CLUTCH STARTED TO STICK AND I FELT THAT SOMETHING WAS WRONG. I REPORTED IT TO MITSUBISHI AND I WAS TOLD THAT IT WAS A NORMAL THING THESE CAR'S DO. ON MARCH 6TH 2004 I WAS DRIVING NORMALLY DOWN THE BOULEVARD, WHEN OUT OF NOWHERE WHEN I AM STARTING TO PULL AWAY IN MY CAR, THE CLUTCH STICKS DOWN ALL THE WAY AND WOULD NOT RELEASE BACK. I HAD TO SCOOP MY FOOT UNDER IT AND MANUALLY PULL IT BACK. I BARELY GOT IT HOME BEFORE THE CLUTCH TOTALLY DIED ON ME. I TOOK IT TO MITSUBISHI THAT FOLLOWING WEEKEND AND THEY TOLD ME THAT THEY WILL NOT COVER THE CLUTCH BECAUSE THEY SAY ALL OF US YOUNGSTERS ABUSE CARS AND THAT WE WILL NOT WARRANTY THE PART. SO I HAD TO GO AND SPEND NEARLY $800 TO BUY A NEW CLUTCH AND HAVE IT INSTALLED. I DON'T FEEL THAT I WAS TREATED RIGHT AND FOR THE CAR TO HAVE A CLUTCH GO THAT FAST, IT MUST OF BEEN A DEFECT. BUT THEY JUST WANTED MY MONEY. *LA

2003 MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION CLUTCH DEFECTIVE AT 5500 MILES. ALSO 3RD GEAR SYNCHO IS GONE. VERY WEAK CLUTCH. *LA

WHILE SHIFTING VEHICLE JERKED AND SHOOK UNCONTROLLABLY. CONSUMER WAS ABLE TO MAINTAIN CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE, AND DROVE IT TO THE DEALER FOR INSPECTION, BUT MECHANIC WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. *AK

I OWN A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION WITH 10,500 MILES. THE CLUTCH APPEARS TO HAVE PREMATURELY WORN OUT AS ENGAGEMENT IS VERY ROUGH AND CAUSES THE CAR TO JUMP AND LURCH FROM A STAND STILL. COMING FROM A START IN FIRST GEAR IS THE PRIMARY PROBLEM. THIS "CLUTCH SHUTTER/CHATTER" IS VERY COMMON IN THE EVO VIII COMMUNITY AND SHOULD BE ADDRESSED. THE DEALER TELLS ME IT IS DUE TO A WORN CLUTCH PLATE AND IS A "WEAR ITEM" AND THUS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. THE CAR HAS NOT BEEN DRIVEN AGGRESSIVELY LET ALONE ABUSED. FROM THE INFO I GATHER MANY EVO VIII OWNERS ARE EXPERIENCING THE SAME SYPTOMS WITH EVEN LESS MILEAGE THAN MINE. THIS DEFINETELY SHOULD BE CAUSE FOR A RECALL!!!! THANKS . *AK

I HAVE A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION-8, AND AT APPROXIMATELY 2,400 MILES I BEGAN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MY TRANSMISSION, AND NO MODIFICATIONS HAD BEED DONE TO THE CAR. IT STARTED OUT AS A 4TH TO 5TH GEAR SHIFTING PROBLEM(GRINDING). IT SEEMS LIKE IT'S RPM SENSITIVE. I HAD THE DEALERSHIP LOOK AT IT, AND THEY SAID IT WASN'T BAD ENOUGH NEED FIXING, HOWEVER, DID AKNOWLEDGE AFTER THEY DROVE IT THAT THERE WAS SOMETHING "OUT OF PLACE" WITH MY TRANSMISSION AND DID EXPERIENCE THE SAME PROBLEM THAT I WAS HAVING. I HAVE HAD THE CAR IN THREE TIMES FOR THIS, BUT IT IS OBVIOUS THAT THEY HAVE NO DESIRE TO FIX THIS. THEN AROUND 4,500 MILES IT STARTED TO HAVE PROBLEMS GOING INTO SECOND GEAR, AND THIRD GEAR WITH A VERY NOTCHY AND ROUGH ENGAGEMENT. I NOW HAVE 12,500 MILES ON MY CAR AND THE SHIFTING IS GETTING MUCH WORSE. AFTER BROWSING THE INTERNET, I FOUND MANY LETTERS AND DOCUMENTS OF PEOPLE WITH THE SAME TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS ON THIS YEAR AND MODEL OF CAR WITH THE END RESULT BEING THAT THE OWNER OF THE CAR IS AT FAULT AND NOT THE MANUFACTURER/DEALER. ONE REFERENCE # IS 10063730 NHTSA COMPLAINT ID: 464401 ENTERED MARCH 23, 2004.*AK

WHILE DRIVING AT 65 MPH CONSUMER SHIFTED GEARS AND SMELLED A BURNING ODOR. VEHICLE WAS PULLED TO THE SHOULDER, AND THE CONSUMER FOUND THAT THE PUSH ROD TO THE CLUTCH WAS BEND. VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER, WHO CONFIRMED THAT THE PUSH ROD WAS INDEED BEND. *AK

ROCK CHIPS BEHIND THE DRIVERS SIDE REAR DOOR. MANY LITTLE CHIPS RUNNING UP THE DOOR FRAME. THE CHIPS ARE IN THE CREASE OF THE DOOR JAMB. I CAN PROVIDE PICTURES. I TOOK THE CAR (2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION) TO HALL MITSUBISHI IN NEWPORT NEWS VIRGINIA AROUND JANUARY OR FEBRUARY. THE SERVICE MANAGER SAID IT WAS ROCKS KICKED UP FROM THE ROAD AND DIRECTED ME TO CALL A TOUCH UP PAINT REPAIR SPECIALIST. I HAVE TALKED TO MANY OTHER LANCER EVOLUTION OWNERS AND SEEN FIRST HAND THAT ALMOST EVERY EVOLUTION HAS THIS PROBLEM. I CAN PROVIDE PICTURES OF THE AREA IN QUESTION. THE CHIPS ARE TINY, BUT THEY ARE IN A PLACE ON THE CAR THAT WILL BE VERY SUSCEPTABLE TO RUST. I STARTED NOTICING THE PROBLEMS ABOUT A MONTH AFTER I BOUGHT THE CAR. I BELIEVE THE PROBLEM IS CAUSED BY A IMPROPERLY ALIGNED REAR DOOR. SO FAR I HAVE ONLY NOTICED THE PROBLEM ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF THE CAR. *AK

EXTREMELY LOUD NOISES COMING FROM TRANSMISSION/FRONT TRANSFER CASE. I KNOW OF MANY OTHERS WITH THIS ISSUE. MITSUBISHI NEEDS TO LOOK INTO THIS SEVERE DEFECT IN THE EVO VIII FRONT TRANSFER CASE!*AK

THE CLUTCH WORE OUT PREMATURELY WHILE DRIVING BETWEEN 45-55 MPH. VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALERSHIP, WHO INDICATED THAT THE CLUTCH NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THIS WAS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THESE VEHICLE. *AK

THERE ARE PITTED RUST SPOTS ON THE REAR DRIVERSIDE QUARTER PANEL. WHERE THE DOOR MEETS THE PANEL. ALSO THERE ARE SURFACE RUST ON THE REAR OF MY BUMPER OF MY CAR.*AK

THE TRANSMISSION IN MY 2003 EVOLUTION IS SOMETIMES VERY ROUGH GOING INTO SECOND GEAR. THE TRANNY FEELS AS IF THE GEARS ARE GRINDING FOR A SECOND BEFORE ENGAGING; I HAVE BROUGHT THIS UP TO THE ATTENTION OF MITUSBISHI CORPORATE AND SEVERAL SERVICE DEPTS AND THEY DO NOT APPEAR TO BE CONCEREND. THIS IS AN ISSUE THAT A LOT OF EVOLUTION OWNERS ARE EXPERIENCING.*AK

MITSUBISHI CORP. PROBLEM WITH TRANSFER CASES WITH THEIR EVOLUTION LANCER VIII....LSO PISS POOR MANAGEMENT TRYING TO SHIFT BLAME ON CONSUMER. HAD TRANSFER CASE FAIL AT 2500 MILES AND WAS GIVEN A HARD TIME ABOUT IT. ALSO FORCED TO RENT A CAR BECAUSE THEY WOULD NOT SUPPLY ONE.*AK

WINDSHIELD WEATHER STRIPE MALFUNCTIONED. AS A RESULT, WINDSHIELD BECAME LOOSE. CONSUMER WAS CONCERNED THAT WINDSHIELD WILL FALL OUT. THE PART WAS REPLACED SIX TIMES, HOWEVER THE PROBLEM STILL RECURRED. *AK

WHILE DRIVING CONSUMER SMELLED A BURNING ODOR COMING FROM THE VENTS. VEHICLE STALLED. CONSUMER HAD VEHICLE TOWED TO THE DEALER FOR INSPECTION, AND MECHANIC DETERMINED TRANSMISSION NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. *AK

CLUTCH FAILURE AT 7,000 MILES. DEALER WON'T PAY FOR REPAIR, I HAD TO PAY $1350.00 PLUS $350 RENTAL CAR. CAR WAS NOT ABUSED , RACED OR MODIFIED. I HAVE READ MANY COMPLAINTS ON VARIOUS WEBSITES THAT PEOPLE HAVE SUBMITTED.*AK

I RECENTLY PURCHASED A EVO8 IN DECEMBER, THERE WAS 339 MILES ON IT WHEN I BOUGHT IT. IT WAS THE LAST OF 2003S. AT AROUND 2500 MILES THE CLUTCH STARTED SLIPPING, TOOK IT INTO THE SERVICE DEPT. AT HUGGIN'S MITSU. IT TOLD THE REPRESENTATIVE WHAT WAS HAPPENING AND THAT IT COULD BE COINCIDENSE BUT I HAD GOT GAS THE DAY BEFORE THE CAR STARTED TO RUN POORLY. HE ASSURED ME THAT WAS MY PROBLEM, HE WOULDN'T EVEN GO LOOK AT THE CAR WHEN I ASKED. SO OVER THE WEEKEND THE PROBLEM WORSENED, WAS BACK AT SERVICE MODAY MORNING. AT THIS POINT I BEGAN DEALING WITH THE SERVICE MANAGER WHO TOLD ME " WELL YOU SPENT 35,000 GET READY TO SPEND TWO GRAND MORE." ALSO AFTER GOING THROUGH DISTICT AND REGIONAL SUPERVISORS WARRANTY DENIED. SO NOW IM WORKING ON ARBITRATION. TO CLEAR ONE THING UP, I BABIED MY CAR. I AM RATHER YOUNG SO FOR ME TO OWN TO A NICE CAR I TOOK EVERY PRECAUTION. I KNOW I'M NOT ALONE IN THIS FIGHT, SO WE SHOULD ALL JOIN AND SPEAK UNDER ONE UNANIMOUS VOICE.*AK

THE AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY DURING AN ACCIDENT. *LA *JB

WHEN DRIVING AT ANY SPEED VEHICLE REVVED THEN STALLED. CONSUMER CONTACTED DEALERSHIP ON TWO SEPARATE OCCASIONS, BUT THE PROBLEM STILL OCCURS.*AK

I HAVE A MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION 8, PURCHASED IN MAY 2003. I HAVE 12000 MILES ON THE CAR AND I AM NOW GETTING SLIPPAGE WHEN ACCELERATING THE CAR. I DID NOT ABUSE THIS CAR, I DID NOT RACE THIS CAR IN ANY WAY. IT IS A DAILY DRIVEN CAR FOR APPROX 10 MILES A DAY. I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY TOLD ME THE CLUTCH WAS WARRANTED FOR 1000 MILES AND NO MORE. I TALKED TO AN EMPLOYEE AT THE DEALERSHIP WHO TOLD ME THAT THERE ARE A LOT OF OWNERS COMING FORWARD WITH CLUTCH ISSUES, AND MITSUBISHI WAS NOT SERVICING ANY OF THEM. I AM DISPLEASED THAT THE CLUTCH WOULD GO OUT AT 12,000 MILES UNDER DAILY DRIVING. *JB

BRAKE PADS MANUFACTURED BY CARBOTECH ENGINEERING HTTP://WWW.CARBOTECHENG.COM MANUFACTURER A BRAKE PAD FOR THE 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION THAT IS SOLD AS A "DIRECT STOCK REPLACEMENT" UPON QUESTIONED BY SEVERAL CUSTOMERS WHO BOUGHT THESE PADS (MYSELF INCLUDED) ABOUT OBSCENELY LOUD NOISES AND WORSE THAN STOCK BRAKING ABILITY, THEY REFUSED TO LOOK AT THE SITUATION AND CORRECT THE SITUATION AS NECESSARY. THEN ADMITTED THAT THE PADS ARE NOT FOR THE EVOLUTION AND THAT THE PADS DO NOT FIT THE APPLICATION THEY WERE SOLD FOR. THEY REFUSED TO REFUND MONEY OR TO FURTHER RESEARCH THE ISSUE OF BRAKING SAFETY. THEY CONTINUE TO SELL THE PADS THAT THEY KNOW ARE NOT A PROPER FIT POTENTIALLY CAUSING A BRAKE FAILURE AND A FATAL ACCIDENT. *JB

CLUTCH STARTING SLIPPING AT 10000 MILES, CAR IS NOT MODIFIED OR ABUSED IN ANY WAY. WAY TO EARLY FOR A VEHICLE TO HAVE SUCH MAJOR PROBLEMS. WAITING TO SEE WHAT SERVICE WILL DO. *JB

AT AROUND 9500 MILES THE CAR BEGAN STICKING, SLIPPING GEARS, JAMMING INTO GEAR. IT WAS DIAGNOSED AS A FAILED BODY VALVE, WHICH THEY ORDERED AND SENT ME HOME FOR 10 DAYS WAITING FOR THE PART--MEANWHILE THE CAR PROGRESSIVELY BECAME WORSE, MAKING ENTERING THE FREEWAY QUESTIONABLE, ETC. AFTER 10 DAYS IT BEGAN DOING THE SAME THING--TOOK CAR BACK IN--THEY SENT ME HOME WHILE THEY TRIED TO REACH MITSUBISHI...WHEN I DEMANDED RENTAL STATING I DID NOT FEEL SAFE (I CALLED MITSUBISHI, WHO INTERVENED AND HAD ME TAKE CAR BACK TO DEALER UNTIL IT IS FIXED). DEALER TOLD ME THEY ARE ORDERING 6 MORE TRANSMISSION PARTS BASED ON MITSUBISHI'S ADVICE. MEANWHILE, I SPOKE WITH AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO WORKED FOR MITSUBISHI, WHO SAID THAT IF THE BODY VALVE FAILED, THERE IS PROBABLY INTERNAL DAMAGE TO THE TRANSMISSION AND THAT TALKING ON THE PHONE AND ORDERING PARTS IS NOT FIXING THE CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM--ALSO THAT THE TRANSMISSION AND COMPUTER HAVE TO BE IN SYNC, AND A DAMAGED TRANSMISSION COULD AFFECT THE COMPUTER OF THE CAR. SO WE HAVE TECHS TALKING BACK AND FORTH ON THE PHONE, A DEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPT THAT DOES NOT HAVE THE ANSWERS TALKING TO A TECH HUNDREDS OF MILES AWAY, AND NEITHER PARTY HAS SEEN THE INSIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION....I FEEL LIKE I HAVE A DEFECTIVE CAR AND AM RUNNING TO THE SHOP WHICH IS JUST PUTTING BANDAIDS ON THE PROBLEM.

I AM A CHEMICALLY SENSITIVE INDIVIDUAL HAVING BEEN POISENED 9 YEARS AGO. I DID NOT RECOGINIZE THE HAZARDS BECAUSE THE DEALERSHIP COMPLIED WITH MY REQUEST TO NOT DETAIL CAR WITH CHEMICALS, BUT THE OFF GASSING OF THE PLASTICS, VINYLS, CARPETS, MATERIALS AND ? (I DO NOT KNOW IF I HAVE OVER LOOKED SOMETHING ELSE) HAS CAUSED MUSCLE PAIN, HEADACHES, NAUSEA, FATIGUE, PASSING OUT AT THE WHEEL, WEAKNESS IN MY LIMBS, INTERNAL CRAMPING AND ECZEMA ON MY HANDS. THE SEAT IS TOTALLY INCORRECTLY DESIGNED FOR SHORTER PEOPLE AND THE ADJUSTMENT IN THE SEAT DOES NOT WORK TO COMPENSATE CAUSING EXTREMELY LOWER TO MID BACK PAIN SO SEVERE IT CAUSES DIFFICULTY IN WALKING, SITTING AND NAUSEA. THE DEALERSHIP AND THE MANUFACTURER ARE NOT WILLING TO TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE INADEQUATE, UNSAFE CONDITION OF THE PRODUCT.

WHILE DRIVING TRANSMISSION SLIPPED GEARS. THIS CAUSED A DISTRACTION TO THE CONSUMER. DEALERSHIP'S MECHANIC WAS NOTIFIED, BUT DID NOT RESOLVE THE PROBLEM.*AK

AT 1000 MILES THE CLUTCH IN MY 03 LANCER EVO BEGAN TO SLIP OCCASIONALLY. I BROUGHT THIS TO THE ATTENTION OF THE MITSUBISHI SERVICE DEPARTMENT AND THEY EXPLAINED THAT THEY COULD NOT HELP ME UNLESS THE PROBLEM COULD BE RECREATED. AT 3000 MILES THE TRANSMISSION BEGAN TO GRIND INTO 5TH GEAR OCCASIONALLY. AGAIN I WAS TOLD NOT TO BRING IT IN UNTIL IT COULD BE RECREATED. AT 4000 MILES I WAS ABLE TO RECREATE THE CONDITION. MITSUBISHI AGREED TO REPAIRING THE TRANSMISSION UNDER THE TERMS OF THE WARRANTY. A CONVENIENCE INSPECTION OF THE CLUTCH WAS ALSO PERFORMED AT THIS TIME. THE INITIAL RESPONSE FROM MITSUBISHI WAS THAT THEY WERE NOT GOING TO REPAIR THE CLUTCH EVEN THOUGH IT SHOWED SIGNS OF SLIPPAGE, AND THEY ATTRIBUTED IT TO ABUSE. THE CLAIM WAS UNFOUNDED AND EVENTUALLY REVERSED BY THE DISTRICT PARTS REPRESENTATIVE FOR MITSUBISHI AND THE REPAIRS WERE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. MY CONCERN IS THAT WITHOUT MY DILIGENCE MY CLAIM WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN RESOLVED AND MORE IMPORTANTLY HAD I NOT CONVINCED THEM TO PERFORM THE INSPECTION THE INEVITABLE FAILURE OF THE CLUTCH MAY HAVE MANIFESTED ITSELF IN SUCH A MANNER TO CAUSE A SERIOUS ACCIDENT. THE FAILURE RATES FOR THE DRIVETRAIN OF THIS VEHICLE SEEM VERY SUSPECT TO ME AND MAY WARRANT AN INDEPENDENT INVESTIGATION INTO THE RELIABILITY OF THOSE COMPONENTS. THESE ITEMS SHOULD NOT FAIL SO EARLY IN THEIR SERVICE LIFE OR WITH SUCH FREQUENCY UNLESS THERE WAS A MECHANICAL DEFECT THAT REQUIRED A RECALL. I AM ALSO SUSPICIOUS THAT THE SERVICE DEPARTMENTS SEEM TO HAVE RECEIVED INSTRUCTIONS TO DISMISS CLAIMS REGARDING WARRANTY DRIVETRAIN REPAIRS. I WAS WARNED NUMEROUS TIMES THROUGHOUT THE SERVICE THAT IF ANY SIGN OF ABUSE WAS PRESENT MY WARRANTY WOULD BE VOIDED AND ALL THE CHARGES ASSOCIATED WITH THE INSPECTION AND REPAIR WOULD BE MY RESPONSIBILITY. THIS FELT MORE LIKE A TACTIC TO DETER OR SCARE ME INTO CONTINUING TO DRIVE A VEHICLE THAT WAS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS. *LA

VEHICLE WAS EXPERIENCING A SPONTANEOUS A LACK OF ACCELERATION WHILE INADVERTENTLY LOSING POWER. THERE WAS A SERIOUS CLUTCH PROBLEM. MANUFACTURER DENIED THAT THERE WAS ANY PROBLEM. *AK

MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION CLUTCH HAS BEEN MAKING LOUD SQUEELING NOISES SINCE 4000 MILES. IT NOW HAS 8300 MILES ON IT AND IS GETTING WORSE. THE OTHER DAY I WENT TO START THE VEHICLE, (CLUTCH FULLY DEPRESSED AND IN 1ST GEAR) AND THE CAR LURCHED FORWARD ABOUT 6 INCHES BEFORE THE CLUTCH DISENGAGED!

IN AUGUST, 2003, MY 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION VIII CLUTCH FAILED WITH ONLY 5000 MILES ON IT. DEALER DENIED WARRANTY COVERAGE AS "WEAR ITEM". ARBITRATION FAILED TO PRODUCE A FAVORABLE RESULT, ALTHOUGH SERVICE WRITER STATED "IT DOES NOT LOOK LIKE ABUSE" AND AFADAVIT FROM ASE MASTER MECHANIC STATED THAT THERE APPEARED TO BE NO ABUSE INVOLVED.*AK

MITSU HQ HAS CIRCULATED A SERVICE ADVISORY TO DEALERS TO CONSIDER "ANY MODIFICATION TO VEHICLE FOR POSSIBLE PERIPHERAL RELATIONSHIP TO ANY FAILURE." VERBALLY, SERVICE DEPARTMENTS ARE SAYING THAT THE TOTAL CAR WARRANTY IS VOIDED BY ADDITION OF ANY AFTERMARKET MODIFICATION. ADDITION OF A-M STEREO IS CONSIDERED GOOD CAUSE TO VOID ENGINE WARRANTY -- COMPLETE CAR WARRANTY. AND THAT THIS ADVISORY IS BEING PROVIDED IN WRITING TO DEALERS. I OBTAINED A COPY. THE ADVISORY DID NOT STATE "DIRECTLY RELATED" WHICH WOULD MAKE SENSE, BUT ALLOWED FOR WARRANTY CANCELLATION DUE TO "PERIPHERALLY RELATED" WHICH IS ANYBODY'S GUESS. SUGGEST THAT THIS VIOLATES THE MAGNUSSON ACT, AND THIS PRACTICE BY MITSUBISHI SHOULD BE INVESTIGATED. CHANGING A CATBACK EXHAUST SYSTEM SEEMS UNRELATED TO A CLUTCH FAILURE, YET OWNERS ARE GETTING WARRANTY REJECTIONS FOR SUCH MINOR MODIFICATIONS. THANK YOU

THE VEHICLE REAR ENDED ANOTHER VEHICLE AT 30 MPH. UPON IMPACT THE FRONTAL AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. PLEASE PROVIDE ANY ADDITIONAL INFORMATION. *NLM

CLUTCH FAILED AT 10K000 MILES. CAR WAS NEVER RACED OR ABUSED. COST OF REPAIR $1600.OT COVERED UNDER NEW CAR WARRENTY EVEN THOUGH IT IS LISTED AS A COVERABLE ITEM IN THE WARRENTY BOOK. DEALER DENIED ANY PROBLEM UPON INITIAL INSPECTION. CAR WAS DRIVEN AN APPROX 300 MILES B4 PROBLEM BECAME UNBEARABLE AND DEALER AGREED THAT THERE WAS AN ACTUAL PROBLEM.*AK

BRAND NEW MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION BLOWS ENGINE AFTER 6,000 MILES. SAID CUSTOMER NEGLECT BUY CANNOT PROVE IT. *LA

VEHICLE WAS INVOLVED IN A FRONT PASSENGER SIDE COLLISION WHILE DRIVING AT 40 MPH. UPON IMPACT, NEITHER DRIVER'S SIDE NOR PASSENGER'S SIDE AIR BAGS DEPLOYED DRIVER AND PASSENGER SUSTAINED MINOR INJURIES. *AK

WHEN MY MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION VIII HAD 3,600 MILES ON IT, THE CLUTCH BEGAN SLIPPING -- THIS OCCURRED WHILE DRIVING 45 MILES PER HOUR IN TRAFFIC. I WAS ABLE TO DRIVE TO DEALER. THE DEALER SAID THE CLUTCH WAS A "WEAR ITEM," AND REFUSED TO REPLACE IT. *LA

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING AT FIRST GEAR ON 2003 LANCER ES. THIS CAR IS ONLY A YEAR OLD AND HAS LESS THAN 6,000 MILES ON IT. I SHOULD NOT HAVE THIS PROBLEM. *LA

THE PAINT JOB ON MY 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER ES IS VERY POOR. A VERY LIGHT CONTACT MAKES A SCRATCH ON THE PAINT. I HAVE THIS CAR FOR ABOUT AN YEAR NOW BUT AFTER THE DEALER WASHED MY CAR FOR THE FIRST TIME, I CAN SEE THE SCRATCHES ON THE HOOD. THE DEALER IS NOT ACCEPTING THE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THIS. I WOULD SAY THE CAR OF THIS PRICE SHOULD HAVE MUCH BETTER PAINT AND SHOULDN'T SCRATCH THAT EASILY. *LA

CONSUMER OWNED A 2003 LANCER EVOLUTION VIII AND NOTICED VERY POOR PAINT QUALITY. ON A CAR THAT COST AS MUCH, AND WAS AS EXCLUSIVE AS THIS ONE , ONE WOULD THINK IT WOULDN'T CHIP AND SCRATCH SO EASILY.*AK

CONTINUATION OF ODI#10023954--WITHIN 2 WEEKS OF REPAIR ON TRANSMISSION (REPLACED VALVE BODY)--CAR REPEATED THE SAME SYMPTOMS WOULD NOT KICK INTO GEAR TO GET ON FREEWAY OR WOULD JERK AND LURCH, SLIPPING AND STICKING. THE DEALER REPLACED 6 PARTS ON THE OUTSIDE OF TRANSMISSION--NEVER LOOKED INSIDE FOR INTERNAL DAMAGE EVEN THOUGH AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC TOLD ME THERE WAS PROBABLY INTERNAL DAMAGE WHEN THE VALVE BODY FAILED. *LA

CAR IS RUSTING ON REAR BUMPER SUPPORTS, CAR HAS LESS THAN 1000 MILES ON IT, AND I HAVE HAD IT FOR JUST OVER 2 MONTHS. *JB

WHILE DRIVING STEERING WHEEL BECAME LOOSE, AND VEHICLE WOBBLED FROM FOUR TO SIX INCHES TO EITHER SIDE. THIS HAPPENED THREE TIMES SINCE OWNING VEHICLE. DEALER AND THE MANUFACTURER HAVE BEEN INFORMED.*AK

2 MONTHS AGO APPROX. I PURCHASED A MITSUBSHI EVOLUTION VIII. RECENTLY THE CLUTCH FAILED CAUSING GREAT INCONVENIENCE AND POSSIBLE SAFETY RISK. THE VEHICLE LEFT ME STRANDED ON THE HIGHWAY AT NIGHT. THE CLUTCH FAILED QUICKLY AND WITHOUT WARNING. IT WAS NOT POSSIBLE TO TAKE THE VEHICLE OUT OF GEAR, WHICH IS VERY DANGEROUS. AFTER BRIEF RESEARCH I FOUND THAT MANY CUSTOMERS ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEMS, AS HIGH AS 35 PERCENT. EVENTUALLY THIS WILL CAUSE AN INJURY. THE DEALER WOULD NOT REPAIR THE VEHICLE AND HAD NO HELP FOR ME, ASIDE FROM THE FREE TOW. THE COST OF REPAIR WAS ONLY 550.00 FROM AN INDEPENDENT SERVICE FACILITY. MITSUBSHI INFORMED ME THAT THIS REPAIR WAS NOT ACCEPTABLE AND WOULD VOID THE DRIVETRAIN WARRANTY. THE DEALERS QUOTE WAS 950.00. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND CONSIDERATION. I THANK A RECALL MAY BE IN ORDER, EVEN IF MITSUBSHI WAS WILLING TO REPAIR THE CLUTCHES FOR FREE, THEY DO NOT HAVE AN ADEQUATE UPDATED REPAIR OR PART. *PH

THE CLUTCH FAILED IN THE FIRST 8500 MILES OF OPERATION. THE FAILURE WAS SUDDEN AND OCCURRED WHILE TRYING TO PASS ON A 2 LANE ROAD. WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH, THE CAR FAILED TO ACCELERATE. *PH

CONSUMER CALLED ABOUT HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE RIGHT FRONT AXLE, WHICH BROKE WHILE DRIVING. THE DEALER AND THE MANUFACTURER WERE CONTACTED AND STATED THAT THERE ARE NO RECALLS AND TO GET A HOLD OF HIS INSURANCE COMPANY, THEY SHOULD SOLVE HIS PROBLEM. *PH

WHILE DRIVING AT 55 MPH VEHICLE EXPERIENCED CLUTCH FAILURE AND WOULDN'T ACCELERATE.*AK

POOR PAINT QUALITY ON 2003 EVOLUTIONS. AFTER TWO MONTHS OF OWNERSHIP, I HAVE FOUND SEVERAL PAINT CHIPS ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE OF THE CAR JUST BEFORE THE REAR WHEEL OPENING. IN ADDITION, THERE ARE SCRATCHES AND CHIPS ON THE FRONT BUMPER AND HOOD. THE OUTSIDE MIRRORS SEEM TO NOT HAVE BEEN CLEAR COATED, SINCE EVERY TIME I WAX THE CAR, THE PAINT COLOR APPEARS ON THE PAD. *AK

WHILE DRIVING 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION IN A RAINSTORM, I ENCOUNTERED A SEVERE LOSS OF ACCELERATION MULTIPLE TIMES. RESULTING IN ERRATIC BEHAVIOR OF THE CAR.*AK OTHERS HAVE EXPERIENCED SIMILAR PROBLEMS IN THEIR LANCER EVOLUTIONS DOCUMENTED HERE: HTTP://FORUMS.EVOLUTIONM.NET/SHOWTHREAD.PHP?S=&THREADID=34867

I AM DRIVING A RENTED MITSUBISHI PROTOGE'. YESTERDAY I REACHED DOWN TO PICK UP A BOTTLE OF WATER FROM THE RECEPTACLE BY THE DASH. AS I REACHED, I ACCIDENTLY BRUSHED THE GEAR SHIFT LEVER ( AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ) AND THE GEAR SHIFT POPPED INTO NEUTRAL. I PULLED OUT OF TRAFFIC AND TRIED THIS AGAIN. SAME RESULT. JUST BUMPING THE GEAR SHIFT SENT IT INTO NEUTRAL. I FEEL THAT THIS REPRESENTS THE POSSIBILITY OF A SERIOUS SAFETY HAZARD. IF IT WERE TO OCCUR IN HEAVY TRAFFIC OR IN ADVERSE WEATHER CONDITIONS, ACCIDENTS COULD OCCUR. *AK

I HAVE THE 2003 OZ RALLY MITSUBISHI LANCER AND HAVE HAD A PROBLEM RIGHT AWAY WITH SMALL PAINT CHIPS OCCURRING WITH VERY LITTLE IMPACT AGAINST THE CAR, AND SCRATCHES TO THE CLEARCOAT ARE HAPPENING WITH LITTLE CONTACT... IF YOU BARELY BRUSH AGAINST THE CAR THE CLEARCOAT INSTANTLY DEVELOPS A WHITE SCRATCH MARK. THIS SHOULDN'T HAPPEN TO A CAR THAT IS BARELY 2 MONTHS OLD. *AK

TRANSMISSION ON MY 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER IS FAILING--WENT TO GET ON FREEWAY AND HAD NO SPEED--PEDAL WAS TO THE FLOOR WHEN IT FINALLY KICKED INTO GEAR. IT LURCHES AND JERKS AND SLIPS GEARS. THE MITSUBISHI SERVICE DEPT. TRIED TO TELL ME NOTHING WAS WRONG WITH IT--WHEN I TOOK THE TECHNICIAN FOR A RIDE WE GOT TEN FEET AND IT JERKED AND CLICKED INTO GEAR--THEY SAY THE TRANSMISSION BODY VALVE IS FAILING--ORDERED THE PART--TOLD ME IT WAS SAFE TO DRIVE THE CAR UNTIL IT IS FIXED EVEN THOUGH IT IS GETTING WORSE EVERYDAY, AND I AM LEARY OF DRIVING IT ON THE FREEWAY. IT IS UNDER WARRANTY, BUT I FEEL EITHER THIS IS A DEFECT OR I GOT A LEMON. MORE TO COME AFTER THE REPAIR. *NLM

PAINT SWIRLS AND SCRATCHES EASILY. CAR HAS LESS THAN 1500 MILES AND HAS ALREADY ACQUIRED SEVERAL SCRATCHES IN PAINT. *NLM

REQUEST FOR RECALL INFORMATION REGARDING AIR BAG DEFECTS ON 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCERS.

PAINT CHIPS AND CRACKS EASILY; TREE SAP AND BIRD DROPPINGS EAT THROUGH PAINT EVEN IF WASHED OFF WITHIN A FEW HOURS; THIS SHOULD NOT HAPPEN ON A 6-MONTH OLD VEHICLE. *NLM

REQUEST FOR INFORMATION ON ANY RECALLS INVOLVING 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. MR *JB

WHEN I DRIVE MY 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER ES AT 20 MPH AND WANT TO INCREASE THE SPEED AND PRESS THE GAS PEDAL, THE RPM OF THE CAR WILL INCREASE AND THE SPEED OF THE CAR WILL DECREASE AND ALL OF A SUDDEN, THE SPEED WILL INCREASE AS IF THE GEARS IN THE AUTO TRANSMISSION JUST ENGAGED. I ALMOST GOT INTO AN ACCIDENT. I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID THAT EVERYTHING WAS FINE AND CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION FLUID. BUT IT HAPPENED TO ME AGAIN EVEN THOUGH THE DEALERSHIP CHANGED MY TRANS. FLUID. I SUSPECT THE AUTO TRANSMISSION IS DEFECTIVE AND IS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS. *JB